Hermès

What’s Old Is New for Hermès Bags Spring-Summer 2023

Reworked and reimagined vintage designs have new life as modern bags for the coming season

Hermès’ ready-to-wear show means it’s time to see a slew of new bags and start anticipating what we will be lusting for come next season. For its Spring-Summer 2023 Runway show and the press viewing days after, Hermès did not disappoint!

Continuing along with the themes of movement and returning to our prior lives (such as with travel) but in a new, modern way, most of the runway bags seemed new and fresh designs but were actually reworkings of discontinued bags, including the following (Please Note that the names below are not the official bag names for these styles, as I do not have those yet!):

Feather Kelly Elan Bag

Reminiscent of the discontinued Kelly Elan in shape, with an added strap instead of a handle on the back and adorned with feathers, this bag went down the runway in several sunset colors, including gold, orange, and coral.

Hermes SS23 detail look 58: a Feathered Kelly Elan. Photo via Vogue.com.
Hermes SS23 detail look 58: a Feathered Kelly Elan. Photo via Vogue.com.
A Kelly Elan, via TPFer @S'Mom
A Kelly Elan, via TPFer @S’Mom

Feather Toupet Bag

Another rehashed bag design was a feathered version of the Toupet (it’s also similar to the long-discontinued Farming Bag) which had the same vertical-cylindrical shape and top strap, and (with the Toupet), feathers instead of horsehair.

Hermes SS23 detail look 88: a Feathered Toupet Bag. Photo via Vogue.com.
Hermes SS23 detail look 88: a Feathered Toupet Bag. Photo via Vogue.com.
An Hermes Toupet Bag. Photo via Fashionphile.
An Hermes Toupet Bag. Photo via Fashionphile.

The New Gao

The Gao, a circular, body-hugging, practical, and very chic retired style, returned on the runway with several modern elements, including a front zipper pocket and keyring.

Hermes SS23 detail look 16: a new Gao bag. Photo via Vogue.com.
Hermes SS23 detail look 16: a new Gao bag. Photo via Vogue.com.
A Gao Bag, via TPFer @Annie9999
A Gao Bag, via TPFer @Annie9999

Tassel Mangeoire

In a set of fresher colors came a very streamlined, enclosed bag with similarities to the Sac Mangeoire (less a few holes), adorned with what appears to be a removable feather tassel.

Hermes SS23 detail look 142: a Tassel Mangeoire. Photo via Vogue.com.
Hermes SS23 detail look 142: a Tassel Mangeoire. Photo via Vogue.com.
A Vintage Mangeoire, via 1st Dibs
A Vintage Mangeoire, via 1st Dibs

Fun Iterations of Beloved Bags

Even at the Post-Show viewings, the bags that (quite literally) shone were reworkings of styles we know and love, including the Kelly Cut, a Clutch-sized version of the Shadow, a Golden Mini Kelly, and a Picnic Birkin.

A reimagined Kelly Cut and Shadow Clutch. Photo courtesy of @TheBagHag.
A reimagined Kelly Cut and Shadow Clutch. Photo coutesy of @TheBagHag.
A Birkin Picnic. Photo courtesy of @TheBagHag.
A Birkin Picnic. Photo courtesy of @TheBagHag.
A Gold Mini Kelly. Photo courtesy of @TheBagHag.
A Gold Mini Kelly. Photo courtesy of @TheBagHag.

Something New

There was indeed one new bag, which does seem to have expanded upon certain design elements of the In-the-Loop SLGs but relieved of some of the more precious trappings of the prior designs while making the transition to a bag in its own right. The new design appears to be a handy and practical size for those on the move, having a long but narrow strap so that it could be held as a clutch, worn on the shoulder (possibly crossbody?), or as a wristlet, with a generous zipper and Clou de Selle detail.

Hermes SS23 Look 5: a new bag for those on the move. Photo via Vogue.com.
Hermes SS23 Look 5: a new bag for those on the move. Photo via Vogue.com.

11 comments

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  1. kang504 Avatar
    kang504

    First one looks like Gritty.

  2. Hervé Avatar
    Hervé

    The new Gao is gorgeous!

    1. Bag Girl Avatar
      Bag Girl

      Yes!

  3. Aline Avatar
    Aline

    The new Gao bag is perfect!

  4. Lynn Avatar
    Lynn

    Looks like the car wash.

    1. Lori Avatar
  5. Patr Avatar
    Patr

    Ever had any piece of clothing or jewelry with feathers??! We all know feathers disintegrate very quickly…in a few years there will be nothing left of the bag 😬

    1. Bari Brandes Corbin Avatar
      Bari Brandes Corbin

      I assume that the feather version is for the runway only… They’ll probably produce the bag without the feathers.

  6. farhy Avatar
    farhy

    Tassel Mangeoire reminds me of some of the AI assistants (Alexa? Google?)

    1. Susan Avatar
      Susan

      Do you mean spying machines people willingly put at the heart of their home? 🤣

  7. Max Brownawell Avatar
    Max Brownawell

    SO happy to see the Kelly Elan again! I’m not sure the Farming is discontinued, I saw a Clouté Farming at Madison just yesterday, and I’ve seen some recent Picnic Farmings, too. I would love to find one in Barenia <3