Every year in early March, Hermès presents its ready-to-wear collection for the coming Autumn-Winter season. Hermès made it a two-parter this year, presenting a second Autumn-Winter 2024 runway show in New York last week.
The review I published in March was my interpretation of artistic director Nadège Vanhee’s vision, dominated by a particular time and style that our generation had seen as children, growing up in a world that (we were told) was freer than ever, yet was dominated by a culture obsessed with visions of a dark future.
The RTW look for AW24 was compelling and so clearly influenced by that era – at least to my eye – that when Hermès announced another show for the same season, I had to wonder: would there be a contrast? Would we see more femininity, more joy?
From my first glimpse of the lighting design for Hermès AW24 RTW Part Two, it was absolutely clear: Vanhee has doubled down on her dystopian vision by expanding it, making it bigger, clearer, and more essentially Hermès.
Fashion does not have to be pretty, happy, or even obvious, especially if it is powerful. In her part two, Vanhee presented an even more powerful, more fully realized vision for AW24, such that it would not be out of line to see this show as more of a main course and the Paris presentation as a prelude.
I will dispense with most of the cultural references that dominated my prior review (to sum up: Mad Max, Dune, Shaft, Star Trek, Androgyny, Escape from New York, Alien, Cabaret, The Hunger, Blade Runner, Robocop and every other dystopian cultural touchpoint that suffused the childhood of Gen X-ers with so many of its personality hallmarks, from sarcasm to self-sufficiency, from lack of trust in authority to lack of faith in having a future (but wearing kick-ass pants and a lot of leather while doing so. And yes, I forgot The Terminator).
What may have been suggestive in the Paris presentation is now undeniable: AW24 Vanhee presents a complete disco-dystopia collection – with just a subtle touch of the Hugo Boss silhouette so that the kids won’t notice – replete with utilitarian-chic leather jumpsuits for dressing on-the-run; long and luxe coats for warm layering; scarves at the ready for an impromptu disguise or air filter; hats and boots for protection from the elements; bags big enough for extra supplies; and enough hardware at the waist and wrist to serve double duty as extra weaponry if needed.
A few of the themes in AW24:
The Androgynous Feminine
There was no visible hair or makeup, and many of the clothes were either menswear historically or genderless, but they were cut or styled in a more feminine way, whether it was a hem or neckline, length, collar, or the consistent accentuation of the female silhouette, including the waist and/or hip.
Jumpsuits
Who doesn’t love a good jumpsuit? Throw on a coat and a scarf, and you’re good to go (unless, of course, you have to go). Warm, easy, laden with D-rings, zippers, and pockets, yet still chic, several desirable options were presented for the season.
Leatherwork
Vanhee leaned into the house’s star materials, using them everywhere from head to toe, and even then, added some brilliant technical flourishes that echoed longtime strap-and-belt themes.
Statement Outerwear
Statement coats and jackets of every length were shown with various levels of adornment and detail, and many were comprised of leather, shearling, or both. For numerous looks, outerwear dominated and was either the main focal point or the piece every other item in the look reflected.
Hardware
Hardware everywhere! There are layers of leather and silver bracelets at the wrist (and even sometimes at the ankle) and absolutely a belt—usually the Collar de Chien—with many of the looks.
Bags
While Part One saw a number of Birkins (including the Shoulder Birkin) on the runway, along with the Collier d’Attelage, this show presented newer favorites, like the Arçon, in both regular and mini sizes. The Kelly Danse and Kelly Elan went down the runway, along with some revived older designs, such as the Plume, the Polochon, and a super-large Etrivière Fourre-Tout.
I love how everything is styled here! Quite often I seem to see people who wear Hermes RTW with their accessories and end up looking not quite right.
This is good for looking for things that can be bought (even if you don’t need them) to have an account and that offer you a Kelly or Birkin.
This is one of my favourite collections from Hermes yet! I love the large, slouch, red bag and the quilted leather pants!
Amazing collection
So happy to see that the CDC belt is back!
Glad I already have CDC belts. Prices are ridiculous now and will only go up after this.