The fashion world has seen countless luxury shakeups in the last decade, and we’ve tracked the game of creative director musical chairs repeatedly.
From Hedi Slimane, who recently departed Celine, to Alessandro Michele, who just made his debut at Valentino, not to mention Sarah Burton’s appointment at Givenchy (she was previously at Alexander McQueen), and less recently, Daniel Lee taking Burberry’s helm after leaving Bottega Veneta.
When a new designer takes the top seat at a luxury brand, it’s impossible to predict what will happen next. Will they overhaul a brand’s core aesthetic entirely like Lee and Slimane did at Bottega Veneta and Celine, respectively, or will they expand upon the foundation built before them, similar to Anthony Vacarello’s work at Saint Laurent?
Chloé and the Boho Boom
Some designers take a few seasons to find their footing, while others immediately catapult a brand back to the spotlight like Chemena Kamali did at Chloé. In an instant, old Chloé (and, in turn, boho) was back, and it’s been years since a collection was as widely and universally celebrated.
Speaking of Chloé, we posed the same question a few years back, discussing the excitement felt at brands like Bottega Veneta and Miu Miu. Miu Miu’s popularity has increased tenfold since then, with a momentum that continues to grow, striking a chord with fashion rebels of every age, but particularly, capturing the notoriously difficult-to-nail-down Gen Z shopper.
Who’s Next?
While we’re still waiting to see who takes the helm of Chanel, we will also see significant debuts at Celine and Givenchy this year, and I am particularly intrigued by the latter. While Givenchy has had some exciting and great bags in the last few years, few have matched the high-profile, it-bag status as those launched during Riccardo Tisci’s tenure.
Seeing a bag debut with the grandeur of early-aughts Givenchy like Antigona, Nightingale, and Pandora would be exciting. Before her appointment at Givenchy, Sarah Burton was massively successful in her work at McQueen, but it was not a leather goods first House, and its bags were more of a backseat to her other designs. It will be interesting to see what she does at Givenchy, but we hope for a rebirth of the early days of Givenchy.
Which bag brand would you like to see have its renaissance?
I’d love to see more of what Daniel Lee has in store for Burberry.
Also looking forward to Sarah Burton’s work at Givenchy.
Ferragamo seems to be having its own renaissance as well.
Louis Vuitton desperately needs a new designer for the men’s collection. It’s been abysmal for years.
YES.
Definitely FERRAGAMO! Their new logo works! It’s sorta quiet luxury and IYKYK. I like bags with less logos/monogram. It’s giving more classic vibe.
This my be out in left field, but I would love for Joseph Duclosto be a forerunner in the handbag game. The styles are elegant, sophisticated, beautiful and timeless. One day I hope to own one.