More than ever, today’s luxury brands are defined by their creative directors. From changes across the board at nearly every luxury house, from Chanel and Celine to Bottega Veneta and Gucci, there is no denying that the individual at the helm of a heritage luxury brand has a profound impact not only on the brand, its designs, and its DNA, but also on its fan base.
When a new designer steps into a creative director position, a shift is often felt, whether stark or subtle, immediate or over time. House codes are reinvented, aesthetics are altered, and a brand can shift seismically with the appointment of a new person.
Though in the past few years—and specifically during the Spring 2026 season—we’ve seen changes across the board, few brands exemplify the statement above better than Bottega Veneta. In 2018, its parent company wanted to modernize, and a new, young designer was appointed to sit at the brand’s helm.
The Delicate Balance Between Heritage and Reinvention
When Daniel Lee took over the role of Creative Director, the one-time luxury sleeper brand saw an overnight reinvention. Younger consumers, who had once overlooked Bottega Veneta’s classic designs, were running to the brand in hordes, clamoring to get their hands on one of Lee’s signature new designs.
While the hype was, of course, good for business, with Bottega Veneta seeing a near-immediate increase in sales, loyalists of the brand saw their worst fears come true, with classics like the Olimpia Bag and the Knot Clutch disappearing from store shelves.
All of this brings up a very pertinent question: Can a brand’s storied House codes and loyal fans coexist with its new ones? Let’s discuss.
The short answer is yes, but it is a tough balance to strike, and it can take years for a brand to find its groove again when a new creative director is appointed. The transition and financial growth are not always as seamless as they were at Bottega Veneta. Take, for example, Celine’s transitional period when Hedi Slimane was appointed creative director back in 2018. Devotees of the brand shuddered at the news of Phoebe Philo’s departure, and it took a few seasons before Slimane found his footing.
Now, with Bottega Veneta and Celine well past those transitional periods, a new cohort of luxury brands is facing the same challenge: balancing heritage with reinvention.
What Happens When House Codes Are Rewritten?
At the House of Dior, Jonathan Anderson brings his modern, experimental vision to the storied French House, melding the old with the new. Anderson began with a revamp of one of Dior’s most iconic bags, the Lady Dior, while introducing new silhouettes set to become cornerstone designs, like the Dior Cigale, which leans more timeless, and the Dior Crunchy, which feels more casual and youthful.
Plus, new House staples like the Dior Book Tote have seen reinvention under Anderson’s reign. Still, while ready-to-wear incorporates archival nods like the Dior Bar Jacket, it has seen some of the most significant changes from Dior pre-Anderson.
At Bottega Veneta, the melding of new and old feels a little less obvious this time around. House codes were revived and refreshed under both Daniel Lee and Matthieu Blazy, allowing Louise Trotter to build on past momentum. Take, for example, Intrecciato, a House staple that continues to see reinvention while remaining an integral part of the House.
Few brands are seeing a reinvention quite like Chanel under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy. The brand was led by the late Karl Lagerfeld for more than 30 years until his passing in 2019, and later by his right-hand woman, Virginie Viard.
Blazy’s Chanel has already seen incredible success, and few designer debuts have been as celebrated and coveted as his Chanel, which hit stores earlier this spring. With a focus on modernizing core pieces like the Classic Flap, which has been given an oversized, slouchy update, and reimagining iconic Chanel Tweed, hints of the past remain—revived and refreshed.
Can Brands Really Do It All?
Still, for every widely recognized embrace comes pushback, and longtime loyalists at both Chanel and Dior have taken to social media to vent their frustrations. Brands must modernize, at least in part, to keep up with the times and shifts in spending power, and if there’s one thing designers and fashion lovers alike can agree on, it’s that the fashion landscape remains ever-changing.
As older generations retire and those who have come of age in the digital era continue to grow and advance in their careers, spending power continues to shift. Along with that shift comes a greater responsibility for brands to strike that perfect balance.
As millennials and Gen Zers age and their spending power increases, it’s important for brands to tap into these emerging markets not only to boost sales but also to stay relevant in a constantly evolving industry. The challenge, of course, is modernizing without abandoning the customers who helped establish a brand’s legacy in the first place.
What do you think? Can brands really “do it all?”
