Jonathan Anderson was just 29 years old when he was appointed creative director at Loewe in 2013. Anderson’s innovative talent and boundary-breaking designs at his own label had caught the attention of LVMH execs, the Spanish design House’s parent company.
It was a decision that will go down in fashion history.
At the time of his appointment, Loewe was not nearly the label we know and love today. Loewe, founded in Spain, boasted an unmatched know-how and attention to detail. It’s one of the world’s oldest makers of leather goods, after all. Still, the brand remained largely under the radar. Then came Anderson, and suddenly, it was everywhere.
Anderson brought Loewe back to life while remaining true to its distinct DNA and the principles of its founder. Anderson had no plans to completely overhaul the house. Rather, he quickly embraced its rich history, opting to focus on its heritage and craftsmanship but through an experimental yet wearable lens.
Anderson would go on to rule Loewe for 11 years, catapulting the brand to ubiquity and increasing sales from €230 million in 2014 to €1.07 billion in 2024. Ready-to-wear sales were a big part of his success, but his innate talent for creating distinct leather goods was also unmatched.
Today, we celebrate Anderson’s Loewe by looking back at some of his best bags while at the brand’s helm.
Loewe Puzzle Bag
Initially debuting as a Men’s Duffle, the Puzzle bag’s bold, origami-like shape quickly won over the hearts of everyone in fashion. Reworked as a women’s carryall (but really, it’s for all), the original bag comprised 75 pieces of leather and took nearly ten hours to make.
It is the true embodiment of Anderson’s Loewe. It’s classic yet contemporary, showcasing Loewe’s unmatched attention to detail and leathercraft. Over the last decade, Anderson has introduced countless iterations of the Puzzle, including collaborations with Howl’s Moving Castle, Spirited Away, and more.
When Anderson introduced the Puzzle Fold Tote to the Puzzle family, he gave the iconic silhouette new life. Ahead of his departure, the House debated the buzzy-new Featherlight Puzzle, further cementing the iconic shape in modern handbag history.
Loewe Basket Bag
Launched in 2017, this iconic summer carryall has become as synonymous with Anderson’s Loewe as the Puzzle bag. Further showcasing Anderson’s commitment to quality and craft, the Loewe Basket elevates traditional techniques.
It is handwoven from raffia leaves that Moroccan artisans have cultivated, harvested, and sun-dried. A leather Loewe Anagram patch defines the bag, which is introduced year after year in new colors and novelty iterations alike.
Loewe Hammock Bag
The shape-shifting, innovative Loewe Hammock bag was introduced in 2016 and has remained a cornerstone design of the Loewe lineup ever since. The bag, which gets its name from the design of a Hammock, is designed to fold and contort its shape.
It is one of the handbag world’s most uniquely distinct designs. Year after year, it has remained a beloved staple in the Loewe line-up, with Jonathan Anderson continuing to revive it in new and interesting ways.
Loewe Goya Bag
Loewe’s answer to the classic box bag was the Goya. Introduced in 2021, the Goya bag was Anderson’s most simple, timeless silhouette. Emphasizing both fashion and function, simple is not to be confused with boring when it comes to the Goya.
The Goya’s clean lines and neat, structured shape focused on Loewe’s storied craftsmanship. Initially launched for Fall 2021, the Goya bag’s minimalist construction combined with its stunning silk calfskin made it a standout. Later, Anderson introduced the Puffer Goya, which added a tactile dimensionality to the classic shape.
Loewe Flamenco Purse
The Flamenco bag was first launched in the late 1970s and was later given a second life in 2010 by then-creative director Stuart Vevers. Although the bag has received slight updates over the years, its distinct, cinched pouch-like shape has remained. Under Anderson’s eye, the Flamenco has been redefined by its distinct, oversized knots. It continues to be one of Loewe’s cornerstone designs.
While Anderson modernized the Flamenco bag in early 2024 with the launch of the Flamenco Purse, the new shape was not in place of but in addition to the original icon. This fresh iteration breathed new life into a decades-old icon, defined by its woven donut chain featuring a jewel-like Anagram-engraved Pebble.
Loewe Squeeze Bag
Loewe introduced the sleek yet relaxed, perfect-for-daily-wear Squeeze Bag in 2023; almost instantaneously, it was everywhere. Anderson’s Loewe perfectly melds timelessness with modernity, and the Squeeze felt like the perfect embodiment of that. Loewe fans agreed, and certain bag variations were quick to sell out.
Defined by its slouchy shape and iconic Loewe donut chain, its incredible craft further emphasizes the bag’s silhouette. Its soft nappa lambskin leather ruches to perfection, offering newness married with Loewe’s heritage in leather goods.
I love your post 😍. Not only design but leather quality