Perhaps you’ve jumped through all the hoops, made all the purchases, and already own a Birkin or three – or maybe you just have an amazing relationship with that stellar Sales Associate (SA) you’ve really connected with. No matter how it happens, you find yourself hearing those magic words you’ve hoped for: your SA invites you to place a Special Order.
What is a Special Order at Hermès? Also known as an “SO”, or occasionally an “HSS” (for Horseshoe Stamp, the foil stamp unique to an SO), a Special Order is an order for a bag where the customer is allowed to select certain options and the bag is made specifically for that customer based on those specifications.
So you have finally reached this wonderful moment! Of course you are thrilled, but there may be a little panic, too. This is because there is usually not much time between an SA’s invitation to place an SO and the appointment to order it, and also because there are many options, but you may not know what those options are until you actually place the order.
No worries – PurseBlog is here to help! Here are the basics about the options you will likely have when placing your SO:
The Special Order Versions
Special Orders are most frequently placed for the Birkin, the Kelly and the Constance, but be aware that they are also available for the Kelly Sac à dépêches (briefcase), the Bolide, the Jige, and the Plume.
Here are the current versions for each SO option:
Special Order: Birkin
For the Birkin, there are five versions you can choose from.
Version 1: Looks like a regular Birkin. Interior, exterior and stitching are all the same color. People may choose this option if they are looking for a specific color and/or leather which is only available by SO.
Version 2: The entire exterior is one color, and the interior and the stitching are different colors.
Version 3: The entire exterior is one color, and the interior, piping and stitching are different colors.
Version 4: Same as Version 3, except the handles, straps and hanging key holder are also the same color as the interior and piping.
Version 5: Same as Version 4, except the exterior side panels (also called gussets) are also the same color as the interior.
Special Order: Kelly
For the Kelly Sellier (this has the stitching on the outside and a rigid appearance) there are three versions and for the Kelly Retourné (stitching on the inside, softer appearance) there are four versions.
Version 1 for Sellier and Retourné: Looks like a regular Kelly, except the stitching is a different color.
Version 2 for Sellier and Retourné: The entire exterior is one color, and the interior and the stitching are different colors.
Version 3 for Sellier: The front panel, back panel and interior is one color and the side panels, handle, handle loops, side straps, hanging key holder, shoulder strap and stitching are a different color.
Version 3 for Retourné: the entire exterior is one color, and the interior, piping and stitching are a different color.
Version 4 for Retourné: The front panel, back panel and interior is one color and the piping, side panels, handle, handle loops, side straps, hanging key holder, shoulder strap and stitching are a different color.
Special Order: Constance
For the Constance there are two versions.
Version 1: Looks like a regular Constance, except the stitching is a different color.
Version 2: The entire exterior is one color, and the interior and the stitching are different colors.
Two Things to Note for Birkin and Kelly Orders:
1. For any version where you are choosing a stitching color, the stitching choice comes from a separate list and can always be a different color from the interior and/or exterior. This is for the stitching only. If you are choosing a version with differently-colored exterior parts (for example, the piping), those parts will all match the interior color and contrast with the exterior; and
2. If you choose a different color interior, the inside of the key holder will also match the interior color.
The Special Order Options
Once you have decided what bag and version you want, you need to select your colors, leather, stitching and hardware.
Special Order Hardware
Bags can usually be ordered with the following: palladium, which is a silver color (PHW), brushed palladium (BPHW), gold (GHW), brushed gold (BGHW) or permabrass, which is paler than GHW. Right now, rose gold (RGHW) is only available for the Constance.
Special Order Leather and Colors
Hermès produces lists of color and leather options annually, starting with the Autumn/Winter season of a given year and continuing through the Spring/Summer of the following year.
The first list is exterior colors. It consists of each type of exterior leather being offered, and underneath each leather is a sub-list of the colors being offered for that particular leather. So, the colors available for epsom will not be the same as the colors available for togo, or for chevre, etc., as each leather has its own color choices.
Given the leather and color options, you may then need to decide what your priority is. If you must have a particular color, you have to see what leathers it will be available in, or vice versa. To complicate things a little, not all leathers may be available for all bags; for example, chevre is only used for smaller bags, usually 25cm and 30cm Birkins and 25 and 28cm Kellys, and you may not know what sizes Hermès is allowing for any given season until your appointment.
After the exterior lists, there is a second list for interior colors. Hermès nearly always makes its interiors from chevre leather, so there are no leather options here, only colors. However – and this is where my brain actually starts to hurt a little, and we need to break out the Venn Diagrams – if you are ordering anything other than a Version 1 or 2 bag (either all one color, or different exterior, interior and stitching), you need to pay close attention here, because the interior color that you choose from this second list will also be your color choice for the gussets, piping, straps, etc, depending on your version – and since those parts are on the exterior of the bag, the color you choose from this interior list must also be on the color sub-list for the exterior leather you chose, back on the first list.
Confused? To explain: let’s say you have chosen to order a Birkin in Version 3, where the exterior is one color and the interior and piping are another color. Togo leather is your priority and you have chosen Notorious Pink from the togo list as your exterior color. You then look through the interior list and Blue Lagoon is on it. Because in this version the piping is also done in the same color as the interior, Blue Lagoon must also be on the exterior leather sub-list for togo if you want to order it as your interior color. Unfortunately, it’s not. You can switch your choice to epsom because it has both Notorious Pink and Blue Lagoon available for the exterior, or choose one of the colors that are on both the togo and interior lists: Mellow Yellow, Cloudy Gray, or Purple Paradise. Alternatively, if you must have those colors in togo, you can choose Version 2 instead and keep the piping the same as the exterior.
Special Order Stitching
Finally, there is a third list for stitching. Generally, you can select any color from this list (this is “contrast stitching”, as it contrasts with the exterior). You can also choose to keep the stitching the same as the exterior color. Please be sure to note exactly how you want the stitching: usually if you select simple “contrast stitching” or select a stitch color very similar to the interior, the craftsperson will use that stitch color for the exterior and then stitch the interior with a color similar to the exterior, so that the stitch will contrast on both the outside and the inside of the bag. You should note if you want the same stitch color throughout.
The Special Order Process
Do as much prep work as you can beforehand. At your appointment you will be presented with the versions, options and lists, but if you are not prepared (ok, even if you are prepared) it can be overwhelming. The process can be confusing, so that advance research is helpful. The PurseForum is an excellent resource (shameless plug, but it really is!), but also do an internet search and take screenshots of SOs that you like. Understand that even with all your planning, at your appointment you may be given different choices from what you had prepared for, so be ready to roll with it.
At your appointment you will meet with your SA, who will use a paper form to take down the details of your order. There may or may not be a complete box of leather swatches available showing how each color appears in each leather offered, but there are usually enough swatches to get a good idea of what you are ordering. There are usually also samples of the various hardware and the stitching options. Take your time and enjoy the moment! After you are done, your SA will send your details to Paris, and your order will be entered into the system. Once your order is in the system (your SA can confirm this, usually about a week after your appointment), it is deemed “accepted” by Hermès unless you are notified otherwise. Then it’s just a matter of waiting.
Even after all of this your SO may still not arrive according to plan. Orders can take a very long time; can be made by the craftsperson with altered specifications; or your SO may even be cancelled. The average wait time is usually a year, and it may take less time, but it can also take two years or more. Usually if an order is rejected, or it arrives with incorrect specifications that you find unacceptable – and yes, you can reject an SO, there is never an obligation to purchase it – you are given the option to place another order. It’s really helpful to just think of this as something fun and enjoyable which may or may not actually work out; or, as one SA has suggested, place the order and then try to forget about it. That is a good way to deal with the wait, and it allows you to focus on other H obsessions!
Examples of Special Order Bags
I will never spend this kind of money to initiate a process that more closely resembles a relationship with a parental or spousal abuser than a crafts person or even a retailer.
I do think you have a point. There is a form of tacit psychological coercion that is quite evident when one reads the H forum. I can’t say that I have ever experienced that myself while shopping at Hermès, but for some clients, the struggle seems to be real!
A “parental or spousal abuser”? What does this mean? Yes, they have ridiculous rules in order to purchase Birkins, etc. but abusers “force” their victims to do things, against their will, or they will harm them. How does Hermes force someone to buy something against their will? Your analogy is truly off point.
Well, let’s see. I own several Hermès products. At the time I believed I was appreciating the legacy of their crafts people and artists, but I’ve changed my mind.
In order to qualify for the opportunity to buy the SO, the customer must perform a series of personal immolations to secure the approval of SA. The customer must try to guess ways to meet the mysterious standards and be extra careful and alert to demonstrate that they are Hermès worthy.
The process repeats if a customer is rebuffed. It’s like walking on eggshells. The exact ratio of flattery, intermediate sales of other products and quiet submission is unknown. Those who are unsuccessful are to blame for not being worthy, while the successful are grateful.
Not only are they grateful, they rationalise this abusive behavior. As if, this is a normal retail process? As if, an SA evaluating your demeanor, income, perceived status etc is actually some bonafide qualification for for buying a handbag? Is that normal? To shun some people by implying flaws in their social standing and award it to others for no apparent reason or for the simple and very crass of reason of mega $$$ ?
And yet, this bag is coveted, an emblem of luxury and taste. No one needs to be awarded such an emblem through these retail practices. It is a very,very shabby way to treat a customer and an abusive business model. If you are awarded the distinction of a SO, you must indeed be a special person. If you were exploited and intimidated in this abusive process to receive that distinction, you’ll keep it to yourself and blame yourself.
BTW, the abused can usually walk away from their abusers anytime. They don’t because they feel dependant on their abusers for emotional validation.
Your analogy is BS and offensive. A woman just added a note to her GrubHub order to call the police because she was being held hostage. Obviously she couldn’t just walk away from her abuser. To compare spousal abuse or any kind of abuse at all with buying a bag in a store – where nobody’s making you do it, is disgusting. Companies can make up whatever crazy rules they want and it’s up to you as a customer choose not to shop there. The notion that you would compare this to emotional or physical abuse is beyond ridiculous. You should be ashamed of yourself.
You do a good job explaining your reasoning, but the comparison is still over-the-top and inappropriate.
I understand your point, but I still disagree with your analogy. I’ve purchased in the Hermes boutique where I live and own several Birkin’s. However, I’m a very casually dressed shopper, always have been, and have never dressed up to shop in any boutique, including Hermes. I’ve received the same service, been offered champagne, etc. as someone dressed to the nine’s. I’ve never once felt slighted, demeaned or mentally abused, in any way. Perhaps we simply have different shopping experiences. In the ten years that I’ve shopped there my experiences, without exception, have always been warm and welcoming. I don’t disagree that Hermes has a process in which to purchase their Birkin’s; however, if we are being honest other brands do similar things. For instance, they release bags in limited supply to make it more difficult to obtain and if one wants it they typically pay extra in the retail market. While this is somewhat different it has its similarities. Also, have you ever been snubbed in a LV or Chanel boutique for whatever reason? I have. Why? IDK and I don’t care. If they are too rude to assist me I can choose to shop elsewhere.
Again, no one is forcing you to enter an Hermes boutique and go through the process to acquire a Birkin. Can their business model by improved? Yes. Abusive? No. When you try to correlate the two in order to draw comparisons, I strongly disagree as they aren’t in the same realm. Abusers have psychological, financial, physical and other control over their victims. Does Hermes have this type of control over you? No. Also, as you may/may not be aware the most dangerous and subsequently deadly time for a victim is when they leave their abuser. That is one reason that women’s shelters do not publish their address in order to protect the victim, if they are lucky enough to make it to a shelter. I could go on, but I won’t. We may need to simply agree to disagree since we are both entitled to our own perspective. I wish you a good day!
Great article! But I seethe…I admit that I can’t be bothered playing hunger games with the Hermes store. I just can’t do it. I want what I want and I’m not going to buy other stuff just to meet some quota. I have purchased brand new Birkins from reputable resellers with their well-known mark-ups. (The amount paid in mark-up with a reseller might actually be less than
what I would have paid in a store to earn the right to buy one.) The fact that there are so many store-fresh ones available on the resale market shows how profitable this has become. And apparently Hermes doesn’t mind? The sources of these bags are their own VIP clients, right? I am amazed at how many brand-new SO bags are available this way. I have one. Is the goal then to just get the chance to order an SO, and then flip it at a profit to support one’s Hermes habit? I guess there are two ways to game the system and score a new handbag: become a sycophant to an Hermes employee, or participate in the vibrant resale market of never-worn bags by over-paying but still getting your dream bag. There is no right or wrong here. Supply and demand in a free market
My husband is going through similar angst in an attempt to acquire a Patek Philippe that is impossible to get your hands on without submitting to a massive mark-up. He was connected through a friend with an authorized dealer who told him that he will have to buy a few less desirable pieces to demonstrate his devotion to the brand before he will be offered the watch that he wants at retail. He decided to pass and is trying to feel satisfied with the watch collection he already owns. He once hopped on a plane and took an international flight to Switzerland, going there and back in less than 48 hours, just to acquire a watch, so he will go to some crazy lengths, but buying things he doesn’t want in the hopes that he will eventually be offered his holy grail watch is a step too far. Buying “lesser” Pateks will end up exceeded the cost of the mark-up he would pay for the HG watch if he bought it on the secondary market. (It is the same situation; well-connected clients are offering the watch brand new at a huge mark-up, either directly or through independent dealers, just as they do with Birkins). My husband gifted me a Birkin for my birthday in 2018, and it was a lovely experience going to the boutique, sitting in a private room sipping champagne and eating sweets while the SA presented the bag. I can’t imagine paying double for the bag to buy from a reseller and not getting that experience. It would be a bummer. (Though I do understand wanting something just to possess it and not necessarily for the “experience.”)
I admit it’s a game that Hermes plays to promote their products and if one wants a Birkin they play by the rules, as arbitrary and ridiculous as they are. Admittedly, I’ve played the game after an Hermes boutique opened in my city. However, part of the appeal purchasing a Birkin, in the boutique, is that you get the boutique experience, but much more importantly you are 1000% guaranteed that the bag is authentic. Also, if a Birkin is purchased on the resale market ppl are mostly guaranteed to pay 100% mark up when this $ can be used for other purposes. However, in the end, one way or the other, anyone wanting a Birkin will pay for it on the secondary market or buy excessive Hermes products before being given the “opportunity” to buy. Both ways are a rip off, IMO. 🙂
Agreed! But there exist well-known established and respected luxury retail (physical) stores who stake their reputations on authenticity and a high-end experience. Most have well-connected personal shoppers who can source virtually anything. It’s a safe and viable option, albeit without the Hermès boutique experience.
Agreed! But there exist well-known established and respected luxury retail (physical) stores who stake their reputations on authenticity and a high-end experience. Most have well-connected personal shoppers who can source virtually anything. It’s a safe and viable option, albeit without the Hermès boutique experience.
I agree.I don’t think anyone should have to spend thousands of dollars to spend thousands of dollars.
Everything you wrote was exactly on point! After many purchases I received an “invitation” for a SO and I chose a Birkin. I did my research re: the colors that I wanted, but was disappointed when I was offered a limited color swatch selection. However, I made my selection only to be contacted later by my SA that the color was no longer available and she suggested another, which I agreed. After 9 months it arrived and I was disappointed since it did not look like I expected, but purchased it for the chance to get another. (Later I sold it for a huge profit). However, she didn’t inform me that I had the option to refuse and reorder, or I would have. Anyway, three years later after more Birkin and other purchases, I was notified by my SA that I was “on the list for a SO’; however, soon afterwards it was rescinded by new management since I previously had one and they “needed to give other people a chance to purchase”.
I was often told that I was “one of their best customers”. However, to be offered something and have it rescinded was unprofessional and classless. It made me think that if they treated someone with strong purchasing power then how did they treat other customers?
I played into their game by purchasing a lot of items in order to get a Birkin, and then later purchased more in order to get a SO, but I carefully constructed and organized a plan to make my purchases feasible by using a buying and selling model of approach. In the end, it was strictly a business transaction which I terminated. Looking back, I realize that “following arbitrary rules” to achieve goals is something I’ve found necessary, at times. For instance, in college I needed to make “A’s” and asked my professors what his/her expectation was of an “A” student, and I met their criteria. I did the same with promotions at work, etc. since at times rules need to be followed, arbitrary or not, in order to reach a goal.
Wow! Thank you so much for sharing your experience, and I’m sorry it wasn’t as good as you expected….honestly, it happens to all of us at one time or another. I am very impressed with your success-oriented approach to things – gotta remember this when I’m trying to give my kids advice!
I dream of getting a standard Birkin bag…so I can’t even imagine a SO. But definitely nice to dream.
Thank you so much for posting. When I started (more than 20 years ago), I felt the same way.
Have any comments, questions or critiques? Feel free to join the conversation about this article on TPF!
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/discussion-purseblog-article-the-special-order-process-explained.1015572/
Great summary of the SO process. Your article would be more credible if you spelled the names of the bags correctly. It is Sac à dépêches and Jige.
Sorry for the typos! No excuses for poor spelling.
Honestly, the Hermès forms do not have the accents on these bags, so I had to go based on memory.
Good golly Miss Molly! Etiquette wise there is a nicer way to say things. Let me give you an example: “Excuse me, I see a couple of misspelled words”. This is polite, gets your point across and everyone feels so much better! Thank you, kindly!
Thank you for your suggestion, I have edited the post to reflect the correct spelling.
Great post! A nice break from the “celebs” ones.
Thank you!!
I want a zombie Birkin. I want each side panel, the back and front panel, the flap, the handles, the stitching, the piping, and the interior to all be a different color. Can Hermes make this happen?
Totally into the idea of a Zombie Birkin! Maybe someday for you!
I can’t visualize how this would look and the images that come to mind aren’t good. However, if the bag was made combining all of the Hermes blues or greens, etc. it would be in the same color family and might be appealing. However, I’m not sure that I can envision Hermes moving in this direction due to their stoic and historical reputation. Can you? 🙂
Stoic? I guess everyone has a different perception! I think Hermes has color and whimsy all over the house. And as a painter, I’m a nerd over thinking about colors and mixing colors and I love how they do it for their scarves, wallpaper, etc. You can combine any number of colors if you choose the right undertones, or if you’re feeling bold, say “Hell no!” to so-called rules. Now THAT’S what art is really about! Sadly, as a painter, I will likely never have the funds to command Hermes to make such a bag for me.
I agree that their scarves are wonderful with all of the color combinations that they use! However, you have an advantage in that you know how to mix colors and what colors may/may not go together. You aren’t a nerd about your approach to color, I would call it a gift. I have tired and am completely incapable of being able to put colors together to create a unified design. I use the color wheel to help me make the appropriate color choices, but I’m still a clumsy oaf when it comes to choosing colors. Why is it so hard when it seems so simple? For instance, I just purchased an older home that requires that every room needs to be repainted, even the ceilings! However, the colors elude me. I think gray is a neutral that would look good on the walls, and I can design a room around that, but I also want to add pops of color and I’m lost re: what colors to choose. Anyway, I clearly digressed, but I hope that one day you can purchase a SO and that Hermes can create a beautiful bag according to your specifications!
Unfortunately, right now Hermès only allows two leather color choices. They used to allow more options years ago, but I’m not sure if it was ever more than 3 or 4. The closest thing I have ever seen to what you want is the Arlequin, which I think was a push offer (basically just randomly made and sent to certain stores, it couldn’t be ordered).
Once again, very informative and wonderful read. Thanks!
Thank you!!
I was offered a 25 Kelly in Spain and later noticed the Horseshoe stamp. I purchased it at an Hermes boutique so it is definitely authentic. I am confused because my bag is black Sellier with stitching and interior to match. The SA thought that perhaps that style bag in black chèvre mysore might have been a custom order.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Also, is it possible for a boutique to order a few special orders for the boutique, or was my purchase a bag that another customer ordered and decided against?
Your instinct is totally correct – it absolutely could also be a bag that a store ordered (it happens!), or a bag a customer ordered and later declined. Sounds like a Version 1 – and yes, you can only get a chevre bag by SO. Congratulations on an amazing bag!!!
In my experience, any SO that Hermes offers is because the original customer did not want it.
Great research! I enjoyed reading this, even though I doubt I will ever own one of these bags, unless I will the lottery.
Thank you!!!
This is a wonderfully written, well researched post that I enjoyed reading. This is the standard I am used to at PB, having been a reader since 2010. The more recent decline in quality of blog posts where half the purses are unidentified (and a quick google search can tell you what they are…) have lead me to visit PB less. Please do more of this and bring back Megs to do her purse reviews. Many a times, I have purchased a luxury purse based on her honest and thorough reviews 😉
So glad you enjoyed this post karina!
I thought it would be easier for me to get back to work post baby 2 but it has been harder than I imagined! I have a review coming next week, promise!
Megs, you are doing an amazing job! My boys are 16 and 13 now.
Karina, your kind words mean so much to me. The wonderful feedback has been so encouraging!
I actually think that you are doing a great job writing articles and providing your input! As a Mom, I remember how stressful it was to take care of 2 children, under the age of 3, and also try to juggle life. Take care of your family, and yourself, and the rest can wait. You have a loyal fan base, who aren’t going away, and we all understand and support you!
I recently purchased around 9 Birkins and 2 Kelly’s. I must say I’m totally in love but will probably sell them some time in the future. You never know
I don’t understand. You “recently purchased around 9 Birkins”, but you don’t know the exact number?
I’ve got around 9 or 10 Birkins . But I always have them cleaned and make sure they’re in pristine condition , just in case I ever want to sell them. I can’t see that happening any time soon as my daughter’s also want them. But you never know.
Another fascinating, well-researched, and beautifully-written post, Notorious Pink.
Whenever I read your posts, I feel as though I’m being treated to a “behind the scenes” tour. Until I joined tPF, I barely knew that Birkins existed, let alone Special Order Birkins. Once I heard of them, though, the entire ordering process was a complete mystery; you explained it so very well.
I look forward to your next article!
Thanks so much!!!
Wonderful Read. Both the information is helpful and inspiring, too
My head is swirling with visions of grandeur especially when it comes to the stitching option
Not only in the experience and craftsmanship like no others, it of course proves that details are everything and that the world is oyster. It’s almost as fun to imagine that like a math equation every SO is unique and has limitless combinations.
Photos included are incredible, too
Veronica Staudt
http://www.vintagemeetmodern.com
Thank you! That’s a really cool way to think about it – I totally agree! I love constrast stitching where it really pops against the leather color.
I was excited to see your 2nd article since they are so thoroughly research and written. To be honest, this time when I saw your article highlighted I read it first before all of the other’s. Since you are an expert on Hermes Birkin’s, or at least write expertly about them, do you anticipate that you will write additional articles on other brands? Thx and keep writing!