Hermès

Hermès Autumn/Winter 2023, Part 1: The Leather Color Charts

Part 1 of our biannual series focuses on the colors and leathers in production this season

Fall is finally here, and with it, the craftspeople of France are back at work in the ateliers and kicking the Autumn/Winter production lines into high gear.

Unlike seasons past, production now seems to roll in progressively throughout the months: gone are the days when one would find most of what was being produced by now, which is well into the season. Scarf designs, ready-to-wear, and leather colors can now drop at any time, and you may find yourself waiting (as I am) for a Spring/Summer item to arrive sometime during the Fall.

Still – and as always – there is plenty to look forward to this season, from a good variety of colors in production to some very exciting limited offers (if you’re lucky enough to get one).

A New and Expanded Article Series for Autumn/Winter 2023

This season we are expanding the breadth of the seasonal colors article series. As usual, part one examines the leather colors currently in production, in both regular leathers and exotics. This part will now also include information on all the leathers that each color is being produced in for the current season.

The next article in this series will be a new section specifically regarding bag production. This will include an analysis, based on available production data, of specific bag combinations currently being offered, including bag/leather/hardware combinations, exotic bags, limited editions and push offers. This information will be presented in part two of this article, coming soon.

The third and final part of the seasonal colors article series will coordinate the current bag production information with the season’s scarves, although this will be scaled back to some extent in order to include seasonal items from other departments, including shoes and ready-to-wear.

Keeping This Article Up to Date

Before we get to what’s currently available, I am including my usual caveat that this list is not comprehensive; although I try to get the most accurate and up-to-date information available, production runs throughout the season and I am certain that I have not seen everything yet. Therefore, this needs to be a group effort so I can keep this article as current as possible.

IF YOU SEE SOMETHING THAT IS NOT LISTED HERE, please add it as a comment to this article. Thank you!

Autumn/Winter 2023: New Colors

Let’s start with the new colors for Autumn-Winter 2023. The new colors being produced are:

Beige Marfa – a neutral similar to Etoupe, with a slightly more yellow undertone (but not as yellow as Kraft);

Sun – a bright golden yellow; and

Vert Yucca – a warm mid-toned green.

What about Bleu Jean?

Yes, Bleu Jean is definitely back this year, usually with the white contrast stitch. Some have called it “New Bleu Jean” and it does have a different color code, however in appearance it is very similar (if not indiscernible) from the Bleu Jean of years ago.

The new colors for Autumn-Winter 2023.
The new colors for Autumn-Winter 2023.
A Mini Lindyin Beige Marfa Clemence with GHW.
A Mini Lindy in Beige Marfa Clemence with GHW.
A Mini Roulis in Sun Evercolor with PHW.
A Mini Roulis in Sun Evercolor with PHW.

Autumn/Winter 2023: An Overview

Below is a composite of many of the color and leather combinations available this season. This list is not comprehensive, but includes many of the color and leather bag combinations produced and/or offered for sale this season.

An overview of the color and leather combinations for Hermès AW23.
An overview of the color and leather combinations for Hermès AW23.

The regular leather colors for the Autumn/Winter 2023 season include:

  • Bamboo (Epsom, Togo);
  • Beige Marfa (Clemence, Negonda, Swift, Togo);
  • Beton (Clemence, Epsom^, Togo);
  • Biscuit (Tadelakt^, Togo);
  • Bleu Frida*;
  • Bleu Indigo (Togo);
  • Bleu Jean (Clemence, Epsom, Evercolor, Togo);
  • Bleu Nuit*;
  • Bleu Pale (Clemence);
  • Bleu Royal (Epsom, Togo);
  • Bleu Saphir (Chevre, Tadelakt);
  • Caban (Clemence^, Togo)*;
  • Cassis (Maurice^, Epsom);
  • Celeste (Chevre**, Epsom);
  • Chai (Togo);
  • Craie (Chevre, Clemence, Epsom, Togo);
  • Cuivre (Chevre);
  • Etain (Togo);
  • Etoupe (Chevre, Clemence, Epsom, Togo)*;
  • Eucalyptus (Togo);
  • Fauve (Barenia, Barenia Faubourg);
  • Gold (Chevre, Clemence, Epsom, Evercolor, Swift, Togo);
  • Graphite (Epsom);
  • Gris Meyer (Clemence, Epsom, Evercolor, Madame^, Togo);
  • Gris Neve (Togo);
  • Gris Pale*;
  • Jaune Ambre (Togo);
  • Jaune Bourgeon (Epsom^);
  • Jaune Citron (Chevre);
  • Jaune Poussin (Epsom)*;
  • Limoncello (Clemence);
  • Macassar (Clemence);
  • Mauve Pale (Chevre, Clemence, Epsom, Swift, Togo);
  • Mauve Sylvestre (Chevre, Epsom, Swift);
  • Mushroom (Clemence, Epsom^, Swift, Togo);
  • Nata (Epsom);
  • Natural Sable (Butler, Togo);
  • Noir (Box, Chevre Chamkila, Chevre; Clemence, Epsom, Evergrain, Swift, Togo);
  • Orange (Clemence, Epsom, Togo);
  • Raisin (Epsom);
  • Rose Pop (Chevre Chamkila);
  • Rose Sakura (Clemence, Swift);
  • Rose Texas*;
  • Rouge de Coeur*;
  • Rouge H (Box, Hunter);
  • Rouge Sellier (Clemence, Epsom);
  • Sauge (Clemence);
  • Sun (Chevre, Clemence, Epsom^, Evercolor, Swift^, Togo^);
  • Vache Naturelle Grainèe;
  • Vert Comics (Chevre, Clemence, Epsom, Togo)*;
  • Vert Criquet (Evercolor**);
  • Vert Cypress (Clemence);
  • Vert de Gris (Epsom);
  • Vert Fizz (Chevre, Epsom);
  • Vert Fonce (Box);
  • Vert Jade (Epsom); and
  • Vert Yucca (Epsom, Swift^, Togo^).

^  I have not yet obtained a good swatch of this combination.
*   Either the leather this is being produced in is not yet known, or there may be an additional leather.
**  I try to provide a swatch that is as true to the appearance of that color/leather combination as possible; however, sometimes there is a large difference in how that combination may appear depending upon the lighting, so I have included more than one swatch.

Here is another look at the color/leather combinations for regular (non-exotic) leathers:

Regular colors and leathers for Hermès AW23.
Regular colors and leathers for Hermès AW23.

Generally, it appears to be a typical Autumn/Winter palette, heavy on the neutrals, browns, greens and blues. In fact, for the first time in a while there are few pinks being offered, and purples will be challenging to find as well.

A Kelly Ado in Vert Criquet Evercolor. Photo courtesy of TPFer @tuftufmochimo.
A Kelly Ado in Vert Criquet Evercolor. Photo courtesy of TPFer @tuftufmochimo.
A 30cm Birkin in Rose Sakura Clemence with RGHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Marmotte.
A 30cm Birkin in Rose Sakura Clemence with RGHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Marmotte.

Exotic Leathers:

Again, please note that this list is not comprehensive, and will be updated later in the season (and hopefully below, too!).

Exotic Colors and Leathers for Hermès AW23.
Exotic Colors and Leathers for Hermès AW23.

Colors for Lizard include Ardoise, Ombre and Noir, as well as a dark blue and orange.

A B25 in Ombre Lizard with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @chicagoroseandthorn.
A B25 in Ombre Lizard with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @chicagoroseandthorn.

Ostrich colors include: Beton; Bleu Iris; Chai; Fuchsia; Gold; Gris Perle; Gris Tourterelle; Jaune Citron; Lime; Nata; Noir; Terre Cuite and Vert Criquet.

A B25 in Gris Perle Ostrich with GHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @laviedesophiev.
A B25 in Gris Perle Ostrich with GHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @laviedesophiev.
A Picotin Lock in Terre Cuite Ostrich.
A Picotin Lock in Terre Cuite Ostrich.

Finally, there are the Alligator and Crocodile colors:

Alligator: Améthyste (Shiny); Gris Ciment (Matte); Lime (Matte); Noir (Shiny and Matte); Orange Minium (Matte); and Rose Shocking (Matte).

Crocodile: Beton; Bleu Saphir (Porosus); Jaune Bourgeon; Miel; Noir (Niloticus and Porosus Matte and Shiny, and Moreletii); Rose Scheherazade (Shiny, Porosus); Vert d’Eau (Matte); and Vert Fonce (Shiny Porosus).

A 24cm Constance in Orange Minium Matte Alligator with PHW.
A 24cm Constance in Orange Minium Matte Alligator with PHW.
Kelly in Gris Ciment Matte Alligator with GHW. Photo courtesy of Sotheby's.
Kelly in Gris Ciment Matte Alligator with GHW. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s.
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