Is the Louis Vuitton Speedy Losing Popularity?

Monogram bags pose somewhat of a dilemma for luxury brands. They‘re perennially in demand, even when logomania isn’t quite the trend du jour. They’re generally bestsellers, even if Gwyneth Paltrow wouldn’t wear one to court. And they’re perhaps the most direct association there could be to the brand itself, even though, in the process, this has historically rendered them largely vulnerable to counterfeiters.

In fact, for the monogram-heavy behemoths of the fashion world, be it Louis Vuitton, Gucci, or Dior, the logo has traditionally been an integral part of their storytelling (and as much as they’d like us to believe otherwise, the bread-and-butter of luxury fashion houses is, at the end of the day, the stories they sell.) Their aspirational appeal is undeniable, too: a piece of heritage monogram has traditionally come to signify prestige, an inkling of wealth if you will. And for commoners such as ourselves, it’s sometimes all we can hope to attain from a luxury label’s line-up.

Lately, however, these same brands seem to be perpetually perplexed by the state of affairs; one question hovering on everybody’s mind: to logo or not to logo? And brands have begun questioning their tried-and-true strategies, with more buyers eschewing their splashy monograms for higher-end variants bearing little obvious insignia, or what advocates have dubbed the quiet luxury movement. Is it finally time to let go of the logo?

It’s rather disconcerting when you think about it. Every time we so confidently proclaim that something is “never going out of style,” how confident are we? Fashion is fickle, after all. And one of the latest “classics” to fall prey to its many vagaries seems to be the Louis Vuitton Speedy. Yes, it’s that cylindrical reticule generations of women have lusted on. And for many, the perfect gateway drug into the world of high fashion.

A Speedy Trip through Time!

For a purse to have lasted (and remained fashionable) for 92 years is no small feat, yet that’s exactly what the Speedy has done. In fact, formerly of a reputation as a luggage-maker for the globe-trotting elite, Louis Vuitton’s first handbag was the Squire, better known now as the Alma, which was custom-made at Gabrielle Chanel’s request in 1925. But the Alma wasn’t manufactured commercially until 1934. The brand’s first purse, therefore, meant for day-to-day use and to become available for sale, was the Speedy in 1930.

Audrey Hepburn with her Louis Vuitton Speedy, image via Life Magazine

Initially dubbed the Express as a tribute to the penchant for fast-paced travel during the era, the Speedy was a shrunken-down interpretation of the popular carry-on, the Keepall, furnished first in plain coated canvas and about a year into its inception in Monogram Canvas. Originally conceived in the 30cm, the lineup was expanded to include 35cm and 40cm sizings. But it wasn’t until 1965 that the 25cm came into being. And who better to have as a patron for it than one of the most prolific actresses of the 20th century! Yes, at the height of her Breakfast at Tiffany’s fame, Audrey Hepburn implored the brand to develop an even smaller Speedy for her petite frame, and Vuitton acquiesced, leading to the creation of the Speedy 25. And it was surprisingly versatile; Ms. Hepburn reportedly wore it everywhere, from London to Paris to Rome and NYC, while it was a favorite of Jackie Kennedy and Lauren Bacall too!

A Versatile Icon

But if you thought the Speedy had reached the height of its popularity in the 60s, you’d be mistaken. The 90s brought the bite-sized Mini Speedy HL, while the Y2K dawned a full-fledged Speedy renaissance!

With Marc Jacobs at the brand’s helm, collaborating with the likes of Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, and Yayoi Kusama, the style was inlaid in mirrored metallic finishes, covered in camouflage-print, reproduced in Multicolore Monogram, polka dots, and racing-stripes, and defiled with graffiti. And these were only some of its numerous variations. It was notably stolen from Paris Hilton’s closet by the Bling Ring, toted by Snoop Dogg and Rihanna, and even reimagined by Sofia Coppola!

Looking back at the Speedy’s illustrious past, do you suppose Vuitton regrets any of it? If given a chance, would the house go back in time to shake their heads in disappointment at every other (sometimes rather questionable) variation of the Speedy it spawned? Probably not. The Speedy of the Noughties was a moment in time that aficionados fondly reminisce to this date.

What the brand didn’t know back then, however, was that with every new rendition of the Speedy, it was only making the style more ubiquitous!

The Ordeals of Fame

In fact, although limited edition Speedys could often cost a pretty penny, the basic Monogram or Damier Speedys – and since 2011, their Bandoulière editions – are some of the most affordable purses within the premier segment; the style starting from $500 in 2002, and as per the latest price-hike, $1,820 for the 25cm. Since then, it has widely been touted as a wardrobe staple, a bag that has initiated many handbag lovers’ collections. The options are endless, with new spin-offs every season and leather editions in Empreinte, Epi, and more.

Sarah Jessica Parker with an Empreinte Speedy

But for a luxury brand, that rarely spells positivity. At one point, a popular entry-point into high fashion, the Speedy was just as omnipresent as its many knockoffs, rearing its monogrammed- or checkered-heads onto the arms of suburban moms, mall-dwellers, college-goers, and everyone in between. And with the consolidation and gamification of previously family-owned fashion houses, brands have little choice but to keep churning out mass-produced wares to keep the revenues flowing and the shareholders happy, sometimes with more-than-justifiable price increases to boot. Add this to the fact that the Speedy has traditionally been considered less functional than its similarly-priced counterparts, like the Neverfull or the Graceful. The Speedy now seems to have somewhat dropped off from the public eye, perhaps relegated to those at the bottom of the luxury spectrum!

An Unlikely Hero

But is it about time the Speedy was finally put to rest? My guess is no. In fact, although its larger sizes no longer make frequent rounds in the arms of fashionistas, the mini Speedys arguably remains more popular than ever! In fact, Vuitton revived the original Speedy HL as the Nano Speedy in 2015 and released the more decorative Speedy BB and the Speedy 20 Bandoulière, which ushered the design into the era of mini purses.

And although Louis Vuitton has been rumored to scale back on its monogram lineups (meaning that the Speedy will either become more difficult to acquire or more expensive), its historical cache is undeniable. And in today’s age of nostalgia, a well-worn, patinated Speedy, scored for a bargain on resale and may be customized to your preference, could up the chic factor immensely!

Among the many stories and legends surrounding the Speedy, my favorite perhaps is about an aged Audrey Hepburn in the 80s. Snapped at Heathrow by the paparazzi, the leading lady is seen carrying one of her familiar old Speedys, its Toron handles amber with age, her delight at the trusty carryall evident from her dazzling smile. And perhaps that reflects the Speedy the best. Certainly, it’s not a totem of understated elegance – far from that.

But at 92 and still in vogue, it’s a cultural icon and a canvas for newer designs. That’s what truly makes it timeless!