What’s In Her Bag: Mary Katrantzou, Creative Director of Bvlgari

The house of Bvlgari may be known for its jewels, but since appointing Mary Katrantzou as Creative Director of Leather Goods and Accessories, there has been a noticeable shift in its bag offering. And that is something I take note of.

If Katrantzou has anything to say about it, and she very much does, we may soon speak about Bvlgari’s bags in the same breath as its famed jewelry. Not as an add-on. Not as merchandise. But as objects of cultural value.

With the launch of the brand’s first-ever Evening Minaudière Collection, Bvlgari is leaning fully into what it does best: symbolism. Serpenti. Monete. Tubogas. Divas’ Dream. Icons that have defined the Roman house for decades are now being translated into handheld, jewel-like minaudières designed to be collectible rather than practical. You’ll quickly notice that these won’t hold your phone, but they aren’t intended to. They’re a statement addition that will inevitably lead to conversation while being a style moment.

In our conversation, Katrantzou spoke about “carrying culture,” about the idea that a bag can feel like a piece of jewelry in your hand and how heritage isn’t something she references lightly, but something she actively designs from. She’s not trying to create logo bags. In her words, “our symbols are our logo.” That distinction alone says a lot about where Bvlgari is heading.

We talked about bridging jewelry and leather goods, the continued evolution of Serpenti, what it means to design within a 140-year legacy, and yes: what’s actually in her bag today.

Your name?

Your occupation?

Where can we find you online?

Can you describe how the Bvlgari Icons collection came to be?

The Bvlgari Icons Minaudieres collection was born from an intention to bridge the world of our jewelry and leather goods.

I wanted to define the space where a piece of jewelry turns into an accessory and a bag feels like a piece of jewelry in your hand. It was also an opportunity to celebrate the cultural symbolism of our Icons: Serpenti, Monete, Tubogas, Divas’ Dream and BVLGARI BVLGARI.

The minaudières allowed us to translate these icons into collectible objects that hold meaning. They are too small and too precious to hold a phone. By design. They carry something far more important. They “Carry Culture”.

What inspired the Serpenti Icon minaudière?

Serpenti is one of Bvlgari’s most enduring icons, first introduced in the 1940s through our heritage watches.

Across decades, it has come to symbolise transformation, rebirth, and strength. With the Serpenti Icon minaudière, I wanted to honour that legacy by allowing the Serpenti head to define the form of the evening bag. It was about capturing the spirit of an icon that is inseparable from the identity of the House and reinterpreting it for a new chapter in accessories.

To me, icons are defined by their continued relevance. By creating a new sense of wearability for Serpenti as a minaudiere, the symbol continues to evolve and strengthen through time.

What’s been the most exciting part of taking on this new role at Bvlgari?

The most exciting part has been immersing myself in Bvlgari’s living heritage and building on the cultural currency of our symbols.

Stepping into this role meant not simply creating bags, but shaping a new chapter for Leather Goods & Accessories that is deeply rooted in our Roman identity and High Jewellery savoir-faire. The intersection between heritage and innovation is both a privilege and a creative challenge.

For me, our bags are not logo bags; our symbols are our logo. That distinction fundamentally sets us apart in the world of accessories. It allows us to create pieces that are unique, timeless, and express our DNA as a High Jeweller.

What are some of your sources of inspiration?

Bvlgari’s archive is always my starting point. I’m inspired by the way the House has interpreted its Icons across decades – constantly evolving them while preserving their codes. That dialogue between past and present is incredibly powerful.

I’m also inspired by the idea that our accessories can carry narrative. A bag is not just an object; it can embody history, symbolism, and emotion.

My role is not to replicate the past, but to reinterpret it – translating our heritage into pieces that feel modern, purposeful, and express identity.

How integral is Bvlgari’s history to your design process?

Bvlgari’s history is foundational to everything I design. It is not something I reference superficially; it is something I work from. The House’s 140-year legacy offers a visual and cultural vocabulary that is both precise and expansive.

Our symbols carry layers of symbolism, syncretism, and emotional resonance. In that sense, history is not a constraint; it is the structure that allows for present innovation that will become our future heritage.

If you could borrow any piece of jewelry from Bvlgari for one night, what would it be, and where would you wear it?

A Monete High Jewellery piece, worn in Rome. There’s something poetic about wearing an ancient coin, once exchanged by hand centuries ago, returned to its city of origin.

What’s your daily coffee order? Favorite coffee shop in Paris?

Cappuccino. In Paris, I love Café de Flore!

Would you rather be able to sing or dance really well?

Dance!

Do you listen to music when you’re working? What type of music?

It depends on the mood, but music always helps me focus. At the moment I’m listening to Dua Lipa, in celebration of her being announced as our newest global ambassador 🙂 

What is the next destination on your travel bucket list? Why?

Thailand is at the top of my travel bucket list. I’ve long been drawn to the richness of its natural landscapes, as well as the depth of its culture.

There is a harmony in Thailand between nature and spirituality that I find incredibly inspiring. I hope to visit soon and allow that experience to become part of my creative vocabulary.

Do you collect anything?

I don’t collect objects in a conventional sense, but the idea of collecting has always been central to my creative world. I’ve always been fascinated by how collections – whether of art, objects, or ideas – become personal archives of memory. 

For my brand’s 10th anniversary, the collection itself was conceived as a celebration of the art of collecting. There is something very powerful about passing down culture to future generations through the act of collecting. 

What career advice would you give to your younger self?

Trust your instincts. Self-doubt often means you are pushing into new territory. Take risks, don’t fear failure, and have the courage of your convictions.

What’s in your bag today and why?

My house keys, a lipstick, my Bvlgari perfume, and a few pieces of candy for a little sweetness throughout the day.