The Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring 2019 collection, Virgil Abloh’s first for the brand as its new creative director of menswear, will be controversial by the very fact of who Abloh is as a designer: he’s gifted at interpreting trends and influences, fusing low and high, and finding a way to translate longstanding luxury signatures for a young, internet-savvy audience. For a lot of older and more established luxury shoppers, those strengths are often interpreted less positively: pandering to trends, copying, cheapening the brands they love, shifting focus away from them to people who they think, frankly, haven’t earned it. The reality of Abloh’s work, and of his first LV collection, is somewhere in the middle.
Both the show and the collection were joyful and multicolored, with a forever-long rainbow runway and bags that ranged from pure white to near-neon red and iridescent PVC. The see-through Keepalls are a lot of fun but look cheap and undoubtedly won’t be, and refinement in finishing is something Abloh has needed to step up for a while. I don’t doubt that he will at Louis Vuitton, though, with the company’s enormous resources and vast staff at his disposal. (And, of course, with LVMH executives looking over his shoulder.) And some of his influences come through with too little “interpretation,” particularly in some clothing that showed signs of now-defunct New York brand Hood By Air.
Some of Abloh’s detractors, though, might be surprised by other parts of the collection. His leather bags were largely both loyal to Louis Vuitton tradition and very expensive-looking, with a flourish here and there to indicate the guard had nonetheless changed since last season. My favorite touches were the grenade-pin closures, fastened to bags with chains. It took my brain a moment to settle on what they were, which is the exact level of cleverness I like in a detail. It also manages to be clever without being cutesy, which is a tone that women’s designers in general could try a little harder to strike in these situations.
Overall, the collection seems like it will be a consumer hit, and it makes me look forward to what else he’ll do with the brand.
[Photos via Vogue Russia]
Uh. Ok I get that he thinks he can get away ripping Off other designers on his main line but that blatant Kelly copy is just… I can’t even.
It’s…not a kelly copy? It’s a historical homage, based off the LV steamer bag introduced in 1901. At most you could say the original was a copy of the Hermes HAC, which was introduced in 1892, but the Kelly as you know it today wasn’t introduced until the 1930s. So I don’t see what you’re mad about or why you’re blaming Abloh – but I actually can’t tell if your comment is being facetious or not…
I’m not a fan of the collection either. But, the one bag you’re referring to is actually based on the Vuitton “Steamer Tote”. That bag from Vuitton has been around since the early 1900’s. So if you think about it, did Hermes end up copying Vuitton?
Both the Hermes and Vuitton versions of this bag are inspired by travel pieces of the 19th century. They did not invent anything here.
Yes! Thank you
must say i have reconsidered, i called this desperate how ever…….the white crocodile is just perfect and even the fur keepall is interesting. in my opinion everything that is done in plexi/plastic is a bit wrong not because i don’t like them, but because i feel they were rushed. they look sloppy even if they are just for show purposes i find that they were not well executed. that said……. its innovative vuitton has not been so creative since marc jacobs in his collaborations with spouse and murakami so all in all well done.
I like #6.
It’s okay. Not really crazy about the monochrome “dipped” bag look.
As a Vuitton collector (for almost 25 years!), I was very disappointed by this collection. The new proportions for the Steamer Bag are cool, but that’s about it. Overall, I find Virgil’s aesthetic quite trashy. It’s just not my taste. Thankfully, LV releases a lot of items outside of the runway collection, so there will be more goodies to discover in stores!
Normally I don’t like LV things, but this collection is amazing. Ironic, fun, contemporary but useful.
Completely agree. Very fresh!
I don’t appreciate Virgil Abloh’s aesthetic and nothing I see here has changed my mind. I know he is a current fashion darling but I am not feeling his designs.
I’m not an LV fan, but I actually like most of these even though they are marketed for men. Now, my husband is a different story. This is way too much “fashion” for him. No doubt he would stick to the classic, traditional pieces.
Whether the general public likes it or not remains to be seen. Those who like LV’s more eclectic offerings will no doubt buy a few of these. Celebrities and professional athletes will have their stylists get some as well. Trust…LV will get some sales for this collection.
I really like this collection!
call me old school but this collection is just tacky and gimmicky – nothing appeals to me!
I dislike everything but #6, #16 and #18. The rest are awful.
Love, love, love the Steamer Bag but what’s up with the hairpin securing the top and and the plasticky chain?
First when I saw his fashion show, I was really disappointed. I’m a huge LV fan and I don’t remember being so shocked ever since Kristen Stewart was announced the face of Chanel. Now, with a closer look at the bags, I have to say there are a few that look young and fresh in a cool way. I prefer really traditional LV pieces myself, but compared to the LV graffiti series and some other special editions from the last 20 years, i feel this series might actually hold their own. At least it incorporates the pattern fans love and it plays with classic shapes we have come to appreciate.
Just not my style.
Omg! I love those new Off White collection! So cool ?
Well rubbish really. Shame on you Louis Vuitton!
The white monochromatic LV-logo’d lunchbox…
Is an eye-roll.