Lately, I, who was formerly an unapologetic hoarder, have been yearning to become a minimalist. But I don’t mean minimalism in that austere, Kendall Roy-meets-Meghan Markle-in-her-Montecito-kitchen way.
You see, over the past couple of years, what used to be the quietude of quiet luxury has intensified into such a blood-curdling, gut-wrenching scream that every time a cream knit two-piece materializes, it triggers a fight-or-flight response in me akin to that of a prey being hunted for its life by a predator.
Which isn’t to say that’s a bad look, only that it terrifies me. But I digress.
No, the minimalism I refer to is rather a retreat from the vast expanse of experimental fashion that, for a long time, left me ensemble-challenged, towards more of a uniform (of sorts) that simply, well, works.
I’m referring to that perfectly-fitted wool olive peacoat nabbed on sale, those Hollister bootcut jeans that flare ever-so-slightly at the legs, violently-pointy boots peeking underneath said jeans (both thrifted), and a monogrammed cherry-on-the-top – or, well, back – my vintage Montsouris backpack.
The flipside of finally finding things that work, however, is that you must now deaccession the stuff that doesn’t… by whatever means necessary: selling them off (ideally), donating, recycling, giving them away, losing them on the subway, or reserving a spot for them on the next Mars Explorer.
Enter: the wide world of pre-owned luxury goods, the destination fashion lovers inevitably turn to at some point in their lives, whether to offload unused wares, unearth nostalgic treasures, or simply escape the aesthetic rut that is TikTok. So, what better way to get through these last few weeks before the holidays than by finding out your very own resale soulmate?
Auction Houses: The Old Guard
Much has been said about the vices of online schmatta.
But to you, seasoned auction house buyer, something just doesn’t feel right about the act of shopping in your pajamas, lying belly-to-bed, squinting at the screen in the wee hours of the morning, scrolling through the assortment up for offer at Christie’s, Sotheby’s, or the likes.
No, to you, shopping is an event: you trawl through your racks, put on clean underwear, and show up in your Sunday best to go auction-house hopping. Even if it is from the confines of your living room. Because when you’re receiving a near-100% guarantee that it is, in fact, the real deal (and returns are only limited to authenticity disputes), you better be ready to fight it out!
Peer-to-Peer Players: The OGs
eBay: Serious Bidders Only!
Peer-to-peer platforms are the modern-day equivalent of antique stores and flea markets. And before eBay came along, writes Liana Satenstein, “there was no way to check prices of items except for biblical glossaries as big as a phone book, dedicated to detailing and appraising each piece.”
Yet, eBay is not for the faint of heart.
It’s the singular oddity in the face of the online shopping-verse where you’re just as likely to stumble upon a 1967 Lincoln Continental Executive Limousine (pre-owned, buy now for $89,900.00 or send your best offer) as much as a Mother of Pearl Fendi Baguette listed for $10,560.00 (with 107 watchers to boot!) Pick your poison, misspell your listings, and send your offer.
Who knows, today might just be your lucky day!
Etsy: The Farmer’s Market of Resale
“If the TV show ‘Portlandia’ were a website,” writes Patricia Marx, “it would be Etsy.” An artisan’s treasure trove, Etsy revels in all things handmade and handcrafted. Wedding accoutrements? Check. Jewelry? Check. A Louis Vuitton tote of dubious authenticity with custom fringes? Check. A “vintage Tramp Art Cigarette Pack Wrapper purse” designed by prison inmates in the 1960s (“. . . a real piece of history . . .”)? Also check.
You’re the kind of person who’d put stickers on all their notebooks at the beginning of a school year, and it really shows.
Depop: the Cool-Kids’ Table in the E-Commerce Cafeteria
If you identify as a Depop person, you are that rollerblading barista all decked out in nylon, eternally ready to launch into an animated debate on Shein’s takeover of pop culture (it has a storefront in Paris now!) with whoever is willing to engage over URL or IRL, while conveniently forgetting that polyester bustier marinating in the depths of your own wardrobe.
You know who you are.
Yet, as the Instagram @dmdrama chronicles, Depop is more than the sum of its blue-haired barista parts – it’s the wild west of resale, where buyer/seller policies are really more of a *suggestion*.
Like yours truly, you may come across a Gucci Hobo presented by the seller’s ex, now thought to possess bad juju (eventually, she chose to take down the listing and get the bag exorcised. True story). Bella Hadid plucks her own raver-inflected Miss Sixty tops from its Y2K innards. Or like Viv Chen, you might get told off for requesting a dust-bag with your purchase that will eventually make its way to you in an upcycled cereal box.
Poshmark: The Soccer Mom Sorority
If Depop is chaotic clubhouse carnage, Poshmark is a tidy suburbia à la Don’t Worry Darling, with only the occasional, vaguely MLM undertones.
Offers are binding, shipments are reliable, and YOU are invited to the Wow-Worthy Wardrobe Posh Party! *insert 37 emojis*
Resale Giants: The Hustle is Real(Real)
TheRealReal: The Real Deal
And by deal, I mean risk.
With a consignment-only model comprising a community spanning over 34 million members—and, conveniently, free home pickups too!—sellers can earn anywhere between 50-85% in payout across a wide range of product categories, from fashion and fine jewelry to timepieces, art, and homeware. That is, if you can get your item authenticated and sold in the first place.
TheRealReal is like that glamorous aunt who’s secretly battling a gambling addiction and shows up at Christmas with a ton of gifts that may or may not fall apart by New Year’s Eve. Proceed with caution.
Yoogi’s Closet: Distant Cousin, Twice Removed. Probably.
You forget it exists, but it’s there, consistently showing up time and time again with a fairly well-curated selection, commitment to authenticity, and a 30-day return window, no questions asked. Enough said.
Fashionphile & Rebag: The High-Flying A-Types
The calm deckhands in the choppy waters. Fashionphile and Rebag are quick to authenticate, quicker to payout, and even faster to buyout – upfront! Is the payout as wonderful as a peer-to-peer platform? Probably not. Is the no-nonsense seamlessness and peace of mind worth it? Absolutely!
(R)E-tail Giants: Resale Goes Corporate
It’s been a while since big players like Farfetch, Shopbop, FWRD, and Selfridges (from across the pond) dipped their toes into the resale-verse, leveraging their massive infrastructures to offer authenticated pre-owned items (at a price, hah!) alongside newer lineups. After all, why not have the seasoned sommelier pour you the wine?
But were we quite ready for Amazon and Walmart to infiltrate the formerly rarefied world of luxury resale with their own Wirkins and (pre-owned) Birkins? Probably not. Did anyone actually buy? Please make yourself known.
Brothers Beyond the Pond
Vestiaire Collective: Living the Eurovision Dream
Though it’s never really explained on Emily in Paris how exactly Mindy came to be in possession of such pricey designer pieces (or, for that matter, what exactly is Emily’s own shady monetary situation), Vestiaire Collective, a trans-European P2P platform operating out of Paris, was more than happy to take that JVMA pink suitdress out of Mindy’s hands and pay generously in exchange to fund her Eurovision trip. With a marketplace of over 23 million shoppers worldwide (and a modest 18-30% commission), discerning global citizens may be able to fund their own Eurovision dreams through Vestiaire.
1stDibs: Flea Market Goes High Fashion
Since the turn of the century, 1stdibs has served as a reliable destination for vintage collectors and connoisseurs, with a goal to emulate the experience of shopping at a flea market in one of the Parisian arrondissements – from the comfort of your own home. Or sometimes, work-desktop (don’t tell my boss).
Just make sure you’re willing to shell out, though – a Gucci FW2004 coat, trimmed in fur and rendered in exotic reptile by the one and only Tom Ford, obi belt and all, currently goes for $18,000 on the platform.
But hey, at least that way you know it’s real, right? RIGHT?
Of course, there are plenty more – too many to fit into the limited literary real estate I’m allowed here. There’s that oh-so-cool Soho boutique, What Goes Around Comes Around, with its expansive selection of Céline, Chanel, and Louis. There’s Break Archive, where worn bags wear their signs of wear like badges of honor. And there are the likes of Grailed and StockX, former sneakerhead hubs that have now cracked the code for handbags.
The only real question in the end is this: what are you on the hunt for today?
My go to place to buy and sell is The Real Real. I’ve been a member for over 10 yrs and I’m a VIP so if something of mine sells for over $200 I get a bigger cut. The lesser priced things you don’t get much at all but at the end it’s money I already spent so at least I’m getting something back. I don’t like that you can’t return handbags unless you pay extra to have that option. I don’t know why they don’t just attach one of those plastic tabs on the outside of the bag and you only cut it off if you keep the bag. You should be able to return handbags no matter what as long as that tag is still attached.
You forgot Ann’s Fabulous Finds. I’ve gotten quite a few items from there. And recently a great LV bag from the RealReal though I agree a buyer should not have to pay extra to be able to return something.
I’m a faithful TheRealReal customer probably for at least 10 years. Maybe more. I’ve bought everything from shirts to jeans to sunglasses. Of course, they keep me in handbags. I have no complaints.
I do not like Poshmark because it takes too long for the item to be shipped. I bought two things then noped out.
Never bought from any of the other ones.
My top choice would be Japanese resellers!
Monoprice for the win!
I only have experience on sell side. For someone truly doesn’t like hassles, my experience is limited to The RealReal – simply print a label and send. I tried Fashionphile twice and the process of taking photos and writing descriptions etc. simply tires me out. The appraisal – which comes DAYS later – is not all that much different than selling without this dance, definitely not worth the extra effort. Granted I’m not selling for profiting so for curating sake, I find The RealReal more appealing.
French here, Vestiaire Collective and Collector Square by bar the most trusted platforms with a careful work on products authentification (it’s not P2P for luxury items) for European users. JoliCloset is also doing a great job. But Vinted is defo the most used P2P platform, though the buyer needs some authentification skills not to be scammed.
As mainly a buyer of resale, I feel I have a lot of experience here as I’ve been doing it for over 20 years starting with ebay. RealReal you can definitely score the best deals if your careful and act fast (it becomes an addiction) but yes it’s risky, if they totally screw up on details and it doesn’t represent the description, you can argue your money back, I’ve had to do it a few times. Ebay you can also get a great deal but also risky but at least there are way more pictures and you can ask questions, same for Poshmark. Fashionphile every time for selling, so easy and you get maximum value (most of the time) and instant payout, if they low ball you, list on ebay or Poshmark for the best return. You’ll have to wait and its a hassle but you’ll return a lot more money for your patience. Rebag often doesn’t give a much as Fashionphile and RealReal as described above will almost always rip you off on the selling side, I don’t even send clothing and shoes there anymore. For what my commission ends up being I’d rather gift the item to a friend. Rebag and Fashionphile are also great for buying, but prices are generally higher, I wait for percentage off sales and for items to be marked down. Everything is packaged so nicely and feels more like a real retail experience, especially their the stores. Love the return option as well, although I rarely use it because the items are described and photographed so accurately.
There are only two resale sites that I truly trust: first is Belgium-based Labellov. Have really enjoyed dealing with them and they are the reseller to seek out if you are interested in Delvaux. The second is Collector Square in Paris on the blvd Raspail. They have a large selection and you can make an appointment to shop at their store in person. They also have a small boutique on the ground floor of the Bon Marche department store (our fav dept store).
I used to be a fan of Ann’s Fabulous Finds but had some issues with trying to sell a bag. Also, I thought their prices were on the high side and for a while, too many items were being sold as final sale only, no refunds or exchanges for any reason. Don’t know if they still have that policy for certain items.
This thread is so relatable. I’ve only sold on Poshmark and honestly the 20% commission stings every single time, especially on higher end pieces. I recently sold a Gucci bag I’d barely used and only took home $1,520 on a $1,900 sale. At that point you start wondering if it’s even worth it. Has anyone found a platform that actually respects what your bag is worth? Feels like we’re always choosing between convenience and actually getting paid fairly. 🙁
Jennifer’s point about convenience vs actually getting paid fairly is the real tradeoff.
I don’t think there is one “best” resale platform anymore. It depends on whether you are buying or selling, the exact bag model, condition, current inventory, markdown timing, and the fee structure. Fashionphile can feel safer and easier, peer-to-peer can return more but takes patience, and Rebag/1stDibs can vary a lot depending on the item.
For high-value bags, I’d compare current listings across platforms before deciding where to buy or sell. Brand preference alone is not enough.