Whenever a big shift happens in a major designer's creative leadership, I watch closely for the next big runway bag the brand debuts. It often tells you a lot about what the new management is thinking when it comes to the direction of the brand's accessories because runways are the splashiest way to signal a new direction to the public, and that's doubly true in a situation like Valentino's: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Picciolo rose as a duo from accessories designers to lead Valentino together, and when Chiuri left for Dior, I was keenly interested to see which parts of Valentino's look had been Piccioli's all along.
And now that first bag is here. The Valentino Demilune first appeared on the brand's Pre-Fall 2017 runway and is now available in a handful of sizes and finishes at Bergdorf Goodman, including both a small and medium satchel and a clutch with chain. The smaller size, which is still big enough to be a day bag, starts at $2,745 in regular leather, while the larger one retails for $3,075. Prices go up from there for specialized versions, which currently include floral embroidery and snakeskin. The runway included even more exotics, but no word on what those will cost yet.
The Demilune is a bag I like more on the models than I like in stock images, probably because it's soft and pliable, which looks better when hanging from an arm than sitting still. Even in photographic form, though, the bag is a nice step forward from the brand's longtime use of ample, uniform-size studs. On this bag, the front closure is two studs made delicate with the addition of a fine chain, and Valentin's signature embellishments also appear on the wide shoulder strap, although how many depends on the version of the bag.
Overall, it's a classic, workhorse shape that lends itself to many different colors and seasonal embellishments, which is where Valentino really wins. This looks to be no different. Check out all the versions available for pre-order below or shop the entire Valentino assortment via Bergdorf Goodman.