And the luxury leather goods slap-fight continues! Just when you thought that LVMH might be appropriately chastened by its multi-million euro fine for using what amounts to using subterfuge and trickery to compile a rather enormous stake in family-owned Hermes, the French fashion conglomerate, helmed by Bernard Arnault, goes and does it again, according to Women’s Wear Daily. (more…)
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For a man who’s just been given a new job, the detail that former Loewe creative director Stewart Vevers went into when talking to Women’s Wear Daily about his nascent arrival at Coach and what it means for the future of the brand was pretty impressive. Vevers has clearly had some time to consider the company’s idea of its future and how his creative vision fits into it, and we’re feeling pretty excited that it may be a great match indeed.
Vevers told WWD that, first and foremost, he plans to make use of Coach’s leather goods heritage. While that’s not exactly surprising – heritage goods are extremely popular among customers because of the look’s implied luxury – it is right in line with how Coach has gained its most recent success. A more traditional look, mixed with splashes of modernity like brights and colorblocking, has proved key for the brand in attracting sophisticated, high-value customers who may have formerly considered the brand more suited for suburban soccer moms and teenagers. I’m one of those people, and so are many of my friends; although I wouldn’t have considered purchasing a Coach bag a few years ago, I now regularly see simple, fun leather bags from the brand that I’d love to carry. Vevers, with his history at heritage brands like Loewe and Louis Vuitton, is a good match to carry that success forward. Vevers employed that same strategy at Loewe in particular, to considerable success.
The designer’s experience with Paris Fashion Week-approved ready-to-wear will also be useful in hastening Coach’s plan to transition into a full-fledged lifestyle brand instead of simply a destination for accessories. The company already has strategy in place to add more apparel and footwear into its stores, as well as expand its men’s business with more variety and a larger product assortment. Vevers seems on board with that plan, and he also specifically mentioned diversifying the brand’s price point – Coach has dabbled with spendy exotics in the past, but apparently the $5,000 Coach bag will be regularly scheduled programming in the near future. Fret not, though – the interview gave no indication that those bags are going to be made at the exclusion of the brand’s more attainably priced options.
If you have a subscription, check out the full, wide-ranging interview via WWD.
First of all: It’s not Marc Jacobs, so everyone can quit bugging him about it. Second of all: We were correct to speculate that Coach might tap a former Mulberry creative director as heir to Reed Krakoff’s throne when he departs in the near future, but we just didn’t speculate about the right one. Instead of recently deposed Emma Hill, Loewe’s Stuart Vevers, who left Mulberry in 2008, will fill Coach’s top design spot, according to Women’s Wear Daily.
Vevers, a Brit who’s worked at brands from Bottega Veneta to Louis Vuitton, has an excellent European accessories pedigree and was even named the British Council’s Accessory Designer of the Year in 2006. After a stint at Mulberry that set the brand up for its current mass-market success, Vevers was tasked with relaunching Spanish leather good brand Loewe. In his time there, the brand has gone from a relative afterthought in the industry to showing well-received collections at Paris Fashion Week and placing the brand’s Amazona (above) and Flamenco bags in the hands of more than a few chic starlets.
With that history, Vevers does seem to have something of a particular touch for handbags, and it’ll be interesting to see what he does when given the enormous resources of a brand like Coach. Of course, with great power comes great responsibility – this will be Vevers’ most high-profile post yet, and Coach has an expectant and opinionated fan base like few other handbag brands within the industry. Coach’s bags also come in at the most accessible prices of any brand in Vevers’ career; I, for one, can’t wait to see how he translates his modern, luxurious aesthetic to a line of products that lots of people can afford to own.
Twice is a coincidence, but three times is a trend, so now that we’ve found a fourth Hermes Birkin covered in graffiti, I feel pretty comfortable saying that defiling the iconic handbag with pain, markers and pens is officially a thing. The latest graffiti’d Birkin comes courtesy of street-art duo Mint & Serf, also known as The Mirf, who were commissioned by Jeff Kain to personalize a while leather Birkin that he bought for his wife Lynn Ban (you might be familiar with her jewelry line). That’s hot on the heels of Moda Operandi’s marked-up Birkin, plus self-styled versions by both Lady Gaga and Nicola Formichetti.
Of the four different Birkin-customization techniques we’ve seen, this one is definitely the most clearly graffiti-inspired. Or perhaps “inspired” isn’t the word – it’s straight-up covered in the stuff, and the commissioned work cost several thousand dollars on its own, according to the Daily Mail. In contrast, Moda Operandi’s version is by far the most sophisticated and traditionally beautiful of the customizations, and both Gaga and Formichetti went to town in their own personal ways. The common thread, though, is the Hermes Birkin. No other bag has had art projects performed on it so fervently, and the reason why people love to mark it up is probably similar to why Francesca Eastwood decided to set one on fire last year – there’s something undeniably attractive about the opportunity to subvert an icon.
If you live in or have traveled to a place where Birkins are very commonly carried, you probably know that there’s often a look associated with them – upper-crust women who are prim and put-together, even when headed to a spin class. (Perhaps especially when headed to a spin class.) That image of decorum and privilege, combined with the extravagant price of an Hermes Birkin and its tailored, traditional look, have turned the bag into an easily recognizable totem of profligate wealth, which is currently a fashionable thing to reject. Nominally, anyway – you still have to have that wealth in order to acquire a Birkin to destroy in the first place. Or “customize.” Whichever way you prefer to see it. I’m still not sure which word I’d use.
If you’ve ever walked along Canal Street, you probably have a good idea of just how big of a business fake handbags are on the black market in New York City. Even when you’re walking quickly, by yourself, with your sunglasses and headphones on (which are basically all the quick visual cues for “not a tourist, don’t bother me” in NYC), it’s hard to make it more than a few steps down that famous street without hawkers shoving price lists and stock cards in your face. Take your headphones off, and even above the roar of traffic and casual conversation, you can hear people murmuring “handbags, handbags” at every passing body. Those salespeople are out there for a reason – tourists flock to Canal to buy fake designer handbags and watches, which are illegal to sell, but not to purchase. If one New York City councilwoman gets her way, that’s about it change. (more…)
I’ve worked in the fashion industry for the vast majority of my post-college life, so occasionally, I forget what it’s like for people in more traditionally corporate or conservative environments, who likely constitute the bulk of women who have the funds to buy themselves designer handbags and shoes. When I read the Washington Post’s piece on White House council Kathryn Ruemmler, though, I found myself served with a stark reminder that not all workplaces are as welcoming to designer bags and expensive shoes, no matter how by-the-book-appropriate. (more…)
Luxury-industry insiders and moguls met for the Financial Times Business of Luxury Summit 2013 in Vienna, Austria, over the past few days, and lots of interesting tidbits of information came out of the event’s who’s-who list of speakers, which included luminaries like Alexis Babeau, Managing Director of Luxury at Kering, and Andrew Rosen, CEO of Theory and Helmut Lang (and a huge investor in Proenza Schouler, among others). For our purposes, perhaps the the most interesting speaker was Gucci President and CEO Patrizio di Marco, who spoke at length about his brand’s commitment to social consciousness, which included a promise to stop using environment-polluting PVC in its products in the next three years. (more…)
If you’ve been following this strange story since the beginning, you know that LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns Louis Vuitton, has been in some hot water with European financial regulators lately over CEO Bernard Arnault’s covert maneuvers to acquire a significant portion of stock from one of his company’s biggest rivals, Hermes. Regulators from European financial agency AMF believe that some of those tactics may have been illegal, or at least not on the spirit of the law, and on Friday hit back at Hermes with quite the penalty: 10 million euros, the largest fine allowable by law. (more…)
As Christina Passariello wrote in a recent Wall Street Journal article, Louis Vuitton, with its flagging growth and logo-covered bags, now finds itself in the throes of the fashion business’ most baffling paradox – how do you sell bags to as many people as possible without becoming a company that’s associated with mass-market consumerism instead of rarified luxury? At least right now, LVMH execs think that the solution to that problem might be to raise prices across the board. Vuitton’s growth has slowed in recent months because luxury-hungry consumers in emerging markets like China are becoming rapidly more sophisticated; in essence, they want subtle leather bags instead of the logo-covered canvas pieces that are Vuitton’s bread and butter, in addition to being the brand’s most visible symbol. So how, exactly, might a price hike help? (more…)
[Editor's Note: In light of the very serious situation on the ground in Boston today, we didn't feel right going forward with business as usual. Our thoughts are with the people of Boston and the law enforcement officials who've worked tirelessly last night and today to make us all safer.]
We’ve tried to provide a bit of fluffy fun in the face of this week’s tragic events in Boston and Texas, but when we found out that our friends at Boston-based Rue La La had come up with a way for people around the country to raise money for the victim’s medical bills and honor the city simultaneously, we thought we’d be remiss not to let you guys know. Rue La La’s Honoring Boston T-Shirts, which come in both men’s and women’s sizes and retail for $20, will send all their net proceeds to the Emergency Medicine Fund at Massachusetts General Hospital, which supports the patients and families affected by the Boston Marathon tragedy. You can pick one up via Rue La La.