When Demna not-so-quietly debuted his first collection for Gucci ahead of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2026, it was clear that the new Gucci was only just beginning. La Famiglia was a study of Gucciness—what defines the Gucci DNA and who is at the core of the Gucci persona?
Demna’s Gucci, which spans decades and is, in many ways, a retrospective, is undeniably sexy and cool yet still refined, elegant, and distinctly Gucci. Today, we’re given a closer look into who the Gucci woman (or man) is with Demna’s first runway show for the House of Gucci, which was presented earlier today in Milan (and yes, some pieces are already available to shop now).
Now Playing: Gucci Primavera
The collection, dubbed Primavera, which translates literally as “spring” in Italian, further defines Demna’s vision for Gucci, establishing a new language for the House without losing sight of what still feels quintessential to it.
Garments are cut close to the body, focusing on form and emphasizing multiple ways of wear. Slim-cut jackets are paired with skirts or trousers, but also shown with leggings and heels. Tiny tops give way to effortlessly oversized tailoring, while slinky eveningwear puts a focus back on details and artisanal craftsmanship.
In true Demna fashion, subtle elements of streetwear are present throughout, in a way that feels very Gucci. And if you ever questioned it, low-rise is, yes, very much back.
The Bags of Gucci Primavera
When it came to the bags, Demna looked to archives once again, giving the Gucci Bamboo 1947 a sleeker look and a bamboo handle that is flexible and not actually bamboo—crafted from flexible, pieced leather sections.
Elsewhere, minaudières inspired by the archives are given modern updates to hold a phone and other essentials, while a sleek new Horsebit shoulder bag, already available to shop now, perfectly encapsulates this new era of Gucci.
Select pieces from Primavera are available via Gucci’s see-now, buy-now capsule collection. Discover our favorite bags below and shop the range now via Gucci.
A disappointing “debut” from Demna. Cheap looking rehash of tom ford era. Those canvas bags aren’t even coated canvas, so they will not wear well at all. Just garbage for the landfill.
I’m actually happy he brought the canvas bags back. I adore the Gucci monogram canvas, but never really got into the coated monogram.
Garbage for the landfill may be taking it too far but nothing I would likely purchase above. I am however very interested in the Borsetto bag that just came out, it is pretty great! I cringed when they announced Demna would take over the Gucci job, IMO his tenure at Balenciaga was a big mistake. I think they wanted the AM edge back, I just don’t think Demna is the guy.
This is sooo boring. It looks like a bunch of rejected bags from previous seasons. Very Gucci Outlet™️ aesthetic.
Boring.
And he completely ruined Gucci. They had a really good thing going. Old school, Italian Gucci that they were brining back with classic codes and he stepped in and shit all over it like what he always does.
To be objective, Gucci has been in a downward spiral for years… sales decreasing and brand identity muddied.
It is the ebb and flow of fashion. When AM was there Gucci was everything and it wasn’t that long ago. YSL had been in a major slump and now… number one on Lyst. Gucci is still top 20 so not that terrible.
AM’s final seasons saw abysmal sales… he was part of the problem.
Actually top 10. I just hope Demna doesn’t ruin it.
Where is the balance between archival and boring? There is nothing new here. Nothing compelling. Is that really worth celebrating? It seems all luxury brands are following this path. No chances taken. Nothing aesthetically interesting.
love the look of the Ristretto
Love the Ristretto❤️
Love the Ristretto