Hermès

Hermès Autumn/Winter 2023 Part 2: Analysis of Current Bag Production

Part 2 of our biannual series examines the array of bags currently in production

As discussed in Part 1 of this article, this season we are expanding the breadth of the seasonal colors article series. In that first part we examined not only the leather colors currently in production, in both regular leathers and exotics, but also information on the various leathers that each color is being produced in.

This article, part two of the series, is a new section specifically regarding bag production, including bag/leather/hardware combinations currently being offered, exotic bags, limited editions, and push offers.

The next and final part of the seasonal colors article series will coordinate the current bag production information discussed in parts one and two with the season’s scarves, shoes, and ready-to-wear.

Notes About Current Bag Production

Part 1 of this article provided an overview of current color and leather production, but of course, that doesn’t tell the entire story. Having produced these color charts for several years now, it is easier for me to spot some trends that I can share with you. Note that the following analysis is based on offerings since the beginning of the AW23 season of approximately 500 bags and is only based on what has been actually produced and seen. Again, please help us keep this article up-to-date by commenting about any new or different offers below.

Boxcalf

The first thing to note is that Boxcalf leather is back in a big way. While Box bags have been trickling in piecemeal over the last few seasons, this trickle has definitely grown into a stream. I haven’t seen so many Box leather bags being produced in many years. All hail the return of the BBB (Black Box Birkin)! As a matter of proportion, of 40 black leather bags offered recently, 12 of those were made of Box leather. Further, the breakdown of hardware on these Black Box bags includes both GHW and PHW and also RGHW (on a Black Box Constance).

The majority of the Black Box bags in current production include mostly Birkins in every size, but Box Kellys and Constances have been offered as well. Further, Boxcalf is also being produced in Rouge H and Vert Fonce. I assume that as the season progresses, we may see a few more colors being produced in Box; a good guess based on prior seasons’ production would include Bleu Saphir and Fauve.

A 30cm Black Box Birkin with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @CTLover.
A 30cm Black Box Birkin with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @CTLover.

Hardware Colors

Another thing to note is that there seems to be a slight uptick in the production of Gold Hardware (GHW) bags in proportion to Palladium Hardware (PHW) bags. So far this season, the production of GHW bags has been dominant in:

  • Beton;
  • Biscuit;
  • Caban;
  • Chai;
  • Etain;
  • Gold;
  • Mushroom;
  • Rouge H;
  • Vert Criquet; and
  • Vert Fonce.

PHW was only dominant for Mauve Pale and Vert Fizz.

The following colors so far have had a good variety of hardware options:

  • Craie;
  • Etoupe;
  • Noir;
  • Orange; and
  • Vert Comics.

However, again, this information doesn’t show the entire picture:

  • While Noir is being produced in a variety of hardware colors – GHW, PHW, Rose Gold Hardware (RGHW), and Permabrass (PBHW) – about 1/2  of the bags have been produced in GHW, with PHW and RGHW bags each being produced in about 1/4 of the bags.
  • Vert Comics production has been pretty evenly split between GHW and PHW; however, all of the Mini Kellys so far have been produced with GHW, and all of the B25s and K25s  have been produced with PHW.

Birkin vs Kelly Production

It does seem that, currently, Kelly production is slightly greater than Birkin production, at least for regular leather bags; however, this is likely because there are many more regular leather variations of Kelly bags than Birkins. These variations include:

  • Mini Kelly;
  • 25 cm (Sellier & Retourne);
  • 28 cm (Sellier & Retourne);
  • 32 cm (Sellier & Retourne – although these are not produced as much lately);
  • 35 cm (Sellier & Retourne – although these are not produced as much lately);
  • Kelly Pochette;
  • Kelly Elan;
  • Kelly Danse;
  • Kelly Ado; and
  • Kelly Dépêches Pouch

while the Birkin variations include:

  • 25 cm;
  • 25 cm;
  • 30 cm;
  • 35 cm (although these are not produced as much lately); and
  • HAC 40 cm (also not produced much lately).

With that said certain colors do seem to be produced more often in one bag style or the other. For example, Craie, Gris Meyer, Gris Neve, and Mauve Sylvestre seem to be more commonly found in Birkins this season, and Celeste, Etoupe, Mushroom, and Vert Comics have been more frequently produced in Kellys. Additionally, Ostrich bags seem to be more frequently available in Birkins rather than Kellys this season.

There are some colors that do not seem to have been used for Birkins at all yet, including Bleu Jean (which is being utilized mostly for Mini Kellys so far). As an interesting note, many of the green (and green-blue) shades in general seem to be much easier to find in the various Kelly styles: this includes Vert Comics, Vert Criquet, Vert Cypress, Vert de Gris, Vert Fizz, Vert Fonce, Vert Jade, Bleu Jean and Celeste. Craie, Gold, Noir, and Orange all seem to be used pretty evenly for both Birkins and Kellys by this point in the season.

Specific combinations that seem to be in slightly greater production include Bleu Jean and Celeste Mini Kellys in Epsom, Craie B25s in Togo with GHW or RGHW; and Gold B25s in Togo.

A MIni Kelly in Bleu Jean with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @sailorally02.
A MIni Kelly in Bleu Jean with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @sailorally02.

Special Bags and Push Offers

There are a wide variety of Push Offer and Special Versions of bag styles this season:

Multicolor and Multileather Bags

Bicolor/Verso Bags so far, all of these seem to be produced as Birkins and include:

  • Bleu de Prusse/Rubis B25;
  • Chai Swift/Beige Toile B25 PHW;
  • Gris Calilou Grizzly/Gris Meyer Swift B25 PHW (I have seen several of these);
  • Noir Box/Ecrou Toile HAC 40 PHW;
  • Noir Swift/Quadrille B25 PHW; and
  • Noir/Blue Nuit B25.
A B25 in Gris Calilou Veau Grizzly and Gris Meyer Swift with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Hermes Zen.
A B25 in Gris Callilou Veau Grizzly and Gris Meyer Swift with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Hermes Zen.

Tricolor Bags, on the other hand, have been mostly available as Kellys and include:

  • Bleu de Prusse/Bleu Indigo/Noir Epsom K25 GHW;
  • Craie/Gold/Mauve Pale K25 PHW;
  • Etoupe/Ecorce/Noir Mini K PHW; and
  • Vert Cypress/Gold Epsom K28.
A tricolor K25 in Bleu de Prusse, Bleu Indigo, and Noir. Photo courtesy of TPFer @GGinSouthTexas.
A tricolor K25 in Bleu de Prusse, Bleu Indigo, and Noir. Photo courtesy of TPFer @GGinSouthTexas.
A Tricolor K25 inCraie Gold and Mauve Pale. Photo courtesy of TPFer @liddy_L.
A Tricolor K25 inCraie Gold and Mauve Pale. Photo courtesy of TPFer @liddy_L.
A tricolor Mini Kelly in Etoupe/Ecorce/Noir with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @jbeans.
A tricolor Mini Kelly in Etoupe/Ecore/Noir with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @jbeans.

Colormatic

The Colormatic Birkins and Kellys are still being offered, either in Chai with Lime, Mauve Sylvestre, and Bleu Brume, or in Nata with Chai, Cuivre, and Bleu Brume.

A Colormatic Birkin in Chai. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Aaybak.
A Colormatic Birkin in Chai. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Aaybak.

Touch

Touch Bags are very popular and are produced in both Birkins in Kellys in the smaller sizes (B25 and B30, Mini Kelly, K25 and K28). The leather combinations currently being utilized are Togo or Veau Madame with Lizard or Togo with Crocodile:

Lizard:

  • B25 Noir Togo/Noir Lizard GHW;
  • Mini Kelly Noir Madame/Noir Lizard GHW;
  • K25 Noir Togo/Noir Lizard;
  • K25 Noir Togo/Noir Lizard GHW; and
  • K25 Rose Pourpre Epsom/Rose Pourpre Lizard PHW
A Lizard Mini Kelly Touch in Rose Pourpre. Photo courtesy of TPFer @ellabellaz.
A Lizard Mini Kelly Touch in Rose Pourpre. Photo courtesy of TPFer @ellabellaz.

Crocodile:

  • B25 Gold Togo/Miel Crocodile;
  • B25 Gris Meyer Togo/Crocodile;
  • B30 Rubis Togo/Crocodile; and
  • Mini Lindy Vert Fizz
A Mini Lindy Touch in Vert Fizz Swift with Vert D’Eau Alligator and GHW.
A Mini Lindy Touch in Vert Fizz Swift with Vert D’Eau Alligator and GHW.
A B25 Touch Gris Meyer Togo and Alligator. Photo courtesy of TPFer @minigrailchaser.
A B25 Touch Gris Meyer Togo and Alligator. Photo courtesy of TPFer @minigrailchaser.

Birkin Fray Fray 

It seems that fewer of these are being produced, and the sole Noir B35 Fray Fray seen recently may have been a holdover from a prior season.

Bolide on Wheels

The Bolide on Wheels has been offered in several colorways, including Bleu Saphir with Orange Wheels, and Vert Fizz with White Wheels.

A Bolide on Wheels in Bleu Saphir Epsom with Orange Wheels. Photo courtesy of TPFer @toefl525.
A Bolide on Wheels in Bleu Saphir Epsom with Orange Wheels. Photo courtesy of TPFer @toefl525.

Cargo Bags

Cargo bags are still being produced in various versions, including the B25 in Noir, and in several Picotin versions, including Beige Marfa/Ecru Toile with GHW, Noir, and Vert Comics.

A Picotin Cargo in Beige Marfa Swift with Ecru Toile.
A Picotin Cargo in Beige Marfa Swift with Ecru Toile.

Côte à Côte Tuffetage Birkin

This particular style has been making the rounds, although a corduroy Birkin might not be everyone’s cup of tea: Noir Swift/Blue Corduroy PHW.

A Côte à Côte Tuffetage Birkin
A Côte à Côte Tuffetage Birkin

>En Desordre

The popular En Desordre bags are also on offer and seem to be a somewhat regular (if still rarer) seasonal offering, like the Touch bags. The Kelly en Desordre production seems to be more frequent and available in more colors – Craie with GHW or PHW, Noir with GHW, or Vert Fizz with PHW, all in Epsom leather – than the Birkin en Desordre, which seems to be limited to Gold/GHW.

A Kelly en Desordre in Craie with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Dollyyy.
A Kelly en Desordre in Craie with PHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Dollyyy.

Kelly Messenger

I am listing the Kelly Messenger, a new bag this season for the Men’s Department, with the special bags here, as future production is currently unknown, Although there are supposed to be two sizes in production, I have only seen the larger size produced so far, in the following combinations:

  • Barenia Faubourg PHW;
  • Caramel Togo PHW;
  • Etoupe Togo PHW;
  • Gold PHW; and
  • Noir PHW.

Quelle Idole Picto

The Quelle Idole Picto appears to be still in production, although still very limited, in the Mauve Sylvestre colorway.

A Quelle Idole Picto in Mauve Sylvestre. Photo courtesy of TPFer @pinkbirkin77.
A Quelle Idole Picto in Mauve Sylvestre. Photo courtesy of TPFer @pinkbirkin77.

Shadow Clutch

The Shadow Clutch, which comes only in Swift leather, has been available this season in Bronze Dore, Gold, Noir, and Vert Yucca.

A Shadow Clutch in Vert Yucca Swift. Photo courtesy of TPFer @StylishCPA.
A Shadow Clutch in Vert Yucca Swift. Photo courtesy of TPFer @StylishCPA.

3-in-1 Birkin

The 3-in-1 Birkin is still being produced in Gold with PHW.

20cm Birkins

The beloved Birkin Faubourg and the much-anticipated 20cm Birkin, while both still extremely limited in production, are making appearances here and there.

Birkin Faubourg:

Recent Birkin Faubourgs produced have been in the Night (Blue) and Winter (Black) colorways.

A "Winter" Birkin Faubourg and a 25cm Lizard Birkin in Noir GHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Hermeaddict.
A “Winter” Birkin Faubourg and a 25cm Lizard Birkin in Noir GHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @Hermeaddict.

20cm Birkin:

The 20cm Birkin, which has only had very few sightings worldwide so far, has been in Crocodile with GHW, including

  • Gold;
  • Gris Neve;
  • Noir; and
  • Vert d’Eau.

The sole exception to this so far has been one 20cm Birkin produced in Lizard in Noir, also with GHW.

A 20cm Birkin in Vert d’Eau Matte Alligator with GHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @junjun2819.
A 20cm Birkin in Vert d’Eau Matte Alligator with GHW. Photo courtesy of TPFer @junjun2819.
A comparison photo of a B25, a B20 and Kelly Pochette. Photo courtesy of TPFer @junjun2819.
A comparison photo of a B25, a B20 and Kelly Pochette. Photo courtesy of TPFer @junjun2819.

Metallic

Finally, there is the much-anticipated return of metallic-colored bags, which were shown for AW23 during the  Spring. Metallic leather Hermès bags have not been produced since 2004 when a limited amount were made available in conjunction with the 2004 Olympics. While none have been spotted for sale yet, it is thought that these should be appearing more towards the end of the AW23 season (October or November).

Here’s hoping!

Gold Metallic Bags expected to be produced this season include the Mini Kelly and the Verrou. Photo via Instagrammer @speciale.__.
Gold Metallic Bags expected to be produced this season include the Mini Kelly and the Verrou. Photo via Instagrammer @speciale.__

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Lori
Lori
9 months ago

It never fails to amaze me how gorgeous H bags are. They are just perfection. (Except for that corduroy B…I can do without that in my life). Thank you NP for another great article!

Terri
Terri
9 months ago

Much obliged for writing this article, Notorious Pink!
I’m head over heels for the tricolor Kellys, love the colorway but not so much for the Côte à Côte Tuffetage Birkin and metallics

Adangerousbeauti
Adangerousbeauti
9 months ago
Reply to  Terri

I think someone eles wrote this, not NP

Vlad Dusil
Admin
Vlad Dusil
9 months ago

Yes, NP wrote it – She’s just now publishing under her name and not the Notorious Pink moniker.

Megan Lee
Megan Lee
9 months ago

This is a great, article. Thank you so much!

Passerine
Passerine
9 months ago

Great story, but I would like to see more Hermes columns focusing on the lesser-known bags. Also “whatever happened to …” stories on bags that were introduced over the past several years that seem to have disappeared. And men’s bags too! At the Hermes store in Lugano, saw a great men’s messenger bag on display.

Mimi
Mimi
9 months ago

Missed out Kelly 40, it’s still being produced.

Judy
Judy
9 months ago

Box also offered in Rouge Piment (at least for small leather goods).

https://www.hermes.com/hk/en/product/h-sellier-card-holder-H083798CA5X/

Mary
Mary
9 months ago

Does anyone know when the Arcon bag will actually be offered? It’s been shown on the runway for three seasons now and I still haven’t seen it IRL. It’s on my list, and my SA says they always show bags on the runway for a while before it’s actually produced. Thanks.

Stephanie
Stephanie
9 months ago
Reply to  Mary

Arcon is supposed to be coming in for the next spring season.

Chris
Chris
9 months ago

Bleu Saphir B25 Box💙 is out there

Iris
Iris
9 months ago

Now H fans won’t call be crazy when I said I got the offer for a Kelly 32 in boxcalfskin! Thank you for the report! ☺️👜

Adangerousbeauti
Adangerousbeauti
9 months ago

I love the full lizard noir Birkin with phw. Thats so me but sadly im not vip enough for any exotic.

Alice
Alice
9 months ago

What happened with the mushroom leather they were reportedly working on? Will Hermes ever offer vegan products? Let me know so I can start saving my $$$$

Juliette
Juliette
7 months ago
Reply to  Alice

Ugh I really hope they never make some hideous plastic monstrosity. Maybe Hermes just isn’t for vegans.

Bill
Bill
7 months ago

I have a Kelly Messenger GM in Noir and have physically seen it in Etoupe (in the wild) and a bright blue (in a boutique) and a yellow color (not gold but brighter) both in a boutique and all with PHW.

I have the Kelly Messenger PM in Noir and have seen “in the wild” both Fauve Barenia, Beton and Blue Jean.

Starting to show up more often though still in very limited instances

Noura
Noura
3 months ago

Do all hermes GHW comes with a hallmark next to Hermes-Paris?