“Don’t.”
An industry friend answered when I asked her just that over drinks a few weeks ago. The conversation started innocently enough with the usual bag chit-chat. We mulled over the year’s most intriguing new bags and those that had just hit the runway during Fashion Month.
We talked about the bags we lust after, from trend-driven pieces to our Holy Grails (mine has quickly become a Hermès Picotin) and the bags we’ve pondered parting ways with.
As any yapper knows, the bag chat was exhausted from every angle until I posed the question at hand: “What would you tell your younger self if you started your collecting journey in 2024?”
“Don’t,” my friend said. “Save yourself the heartache and thousands of dollars, and just don’t.” We laughed, knowing full well that if anyone had told our younger selves not to start collecting handbags, we would never have listened.
Now and Then
The luxury handbag world has changed tremendously in the 20 years since I purchased my first designer bag—a Dior Saddle Pochette for $350. While in many ways, the industry has made massive strides to feel more inclusive, catering to all genders and celebrating different points of view, it’s also become more exclusionary than ever before.
Prices have risen across the board, and even entry-level price points are far less accessible than they used to be. For those who don’t fall into the top tax brackets, I imagine that in 2024, the journey towards a designer bag collection, or even your first designer bag, can feel next to impossible.
Still, there are some pros to being a rookie in 2024. For starters, the resale market is larger than ever, making the possibility of your dream bag within reach, especially if you don’t mind a few dings (the truth is, you’ll wear her well anyway!). Not to mention, with many of 2024’s top bags being revivals from the early aughts, it’s possible to snag the vintage version of your dream bag for a fraction of the cost.
Shop Pre-Loved, Shop Sustainably, and Save
While I would have brushed off my first bag coming from eBay or a secondhand shop back in the day, if I were starting my collection in 2024, I would 100% tell my younger self to buy secondhand. Your first bag should feel special, but contrary to what I thought back then, buying pre-loved doesn’t dampen the experience at all.
Not to mention, buying a bag that’s been used (whether a lot or a little) wipes away what I’d like to call “the white-glove woes” that come with your very first expensive bag.
What advice would you give to yourself if you were starting your collection in 2024?
Shop in your own closet first. What bags do you have that you like and use regularly? Next, consider what purposes your new bags will serve. Work bag that holds your laptop etc? Everyday out-and-about bag? Special occasion bag? Mini bag? If your budget won’t cover all of these, prioritize. Then go “just looking” someplace where you can see and handle lots of premium and contemporary designer brand bags. Are they well made? Sturdy or delicate? How are they to wear? Light or heavy? Too big/too small? Does the shoulder strap stay put or slide off too easily? How secure is its closure? What’s the interior like — yes/no to interior pockets? Want something you can use for years or would you rather go with the latest trends? Are there brands that “speak” to you?
After taking measure of what you like (or could easily live without), think budget. For certain designer classic bags (Chanel flap, Lady Dior) you might want to look for pre-loved in excellent condition rather than new bags with new (high) prices.
Three caveats: First, don’t go into debt for bags. Buy what you can afford and take pleasure in that. Second, don’t buy fakes. Your bags should not be supporting organized crime! If you can’t afford the real thing brand new, either consider second hand or look at lesser known, less expensive but still attractive, quality brands (see recent PB columns on Polene and Le Tanneur plus the many recommendations on TPF). Third, be careful about buying exotics. Restrictions on their sale are growing. They may also need special care.
Yes to all of this! So well thought-out and explained – also many of us here should revert back to this. I also love the “Are there brands that “speak” to you?” bit. As an early collector, I thought it necessary to have bags from each luxury brand, even if they weren’t “me.” Many of those I sold! I wish I knew that then!
Thank you. And btw, we will be in Paris next month for 10 days and I am definitely going to check out both the new Polene Nodde (Ebene color) and Le Tanneur Emilie (the medium in either embossed black or brown/tan). Pretty sure I’ll be coming home with at least one, possibly both!
P.S. Back in May you posted an article showing some gorgeous new LV epi bags in rich colors (purple, fuschia etc). I asked my SA in Lugano about them and she said they are now available but only by special order from a store.
You just answered my question. I was in LV in the US this week and asked about those epi bags. I have been waiting for them and wondering why they haven’t been released. Didn’t know it was only special order. Thanks!
And buy only what you have an absolute visceral reaction to–leave everything else behind. Passerine’s advice here is priceless! Well done.
I have the same philosophy with other fashion items like shoes and clothes!
Excellent advice, Passerine!
Don’t buy trendy bags and don’t pay attention to Influencers. Follow your heart and buy what you love, but set a budget and stick to it!
For some people (definitely me) things like designer wallets were the gateway to buying a bag. My advice is to skip the SLGs and save your money for the bag. (You’re reading Purseblog and not Continental Walletblog for a reason.)
Yes, they are a much more accessible price point than a bag and you get the satisfaction of buying a designer piece, but it just sets you back from getting that dream bag. While some deisgner SLGs may be decent, a $50 leather wallet does the job just as well and saves you $450 that you could put toward a bag!
I would tell my younger self to get more bespoke bags and definitely buy second hand.
And no, you don’t need another color of the exact same bag. You have way too many of the same model already.
Every few years, my friends and I get together for a bag, clothes, and shoe swap. We bring our stuff (in very good condition!) that has been left languishing in the closet for one reason or another. We order some delivery pizzas, break out the wine and then try on and trade. On our last swap, I exchanged my rarely used Caroline Herrera and Prada bags for a friend’s gorgeous Loro Piana cashmere sweaters abandoned due to menopause hot flashes.
This is what I dream to do! Good for you and I am full of envy. My friends of similar interests are scattered around the world so I can only dream to get together with them casually and do this stuff (the best kind of get-together!). Happy swapping 🙂
I would tel myself to read your article 🙂
I only just started my luxury handbag journey two years ago, but I’ve been a collector of handbags in general for most of my life. My strategy- I consider how I’ll use the bag (certain occasion, everyday, travel, dinner date with friends); prioritize bags to get more clarity on what I’d be willing to forgo for some time vs. a bag that really grabs my heart now; budget- NEVER go into debt buying handbags so I buy what I can afford; preloved is the way to go for many bags- they are cheaper most times & fashion is so cyclical that you might easily find a “trendy/current” bag that is simply a reissue of bags long ago; check the retail price first (sometimes the price difference between pre-loved & retail is so miniscule that it may make more sense to pay retail); rarely do I buy bags on impulse. I live in an area where it’s a rarity that I see luxury handbags in person so that gives me the space to really think through a purchase & saves me from having bag regrets (plus luxury bags are so expensive that I can’t afford to spend so much only to regret it later); determine that I won’t buy the same bag in multiple colors (anymore ;); lastly, I keep a list of all my handbags. This helps me have a nicely curated collection of bags in a variety of colors. If I do buy two bags that are the same color or are close in color, I make sure they serve different purposes.
Pick a bag you will use, regularly. Pick a style which looks good on you, like buying clothes. Pick a versatile color or color scheme. Do some research: educate yourself why certain bags are considered “luxury” and others are a step below. Read how to check or see if the item is fake; what makes that designer’s bag unique. If the price is too good to be true, then it is. Online shopping has become more dangerous because the fakes are very good. Research the Seller. Don’t copycat celebrities for many reasons, foremost: follow your own budget. Don’t be intimidated when shopping retail for the first time, and don’t be apologetic. Ask Qs, be friendly, be honest, be patient, and keep in mind, the S.A. does not have time just for you. There is no obligation to open your wallet. Once educated about the luxury item, learn what the “codes” mean when buying pre-owned: New; Never Worn; Excellent Condition; Some Wear; Shows Some Wear; Small Scratches; etc. Be careful if there is no info about the bag’s current condition. Are the photos of the item for sale, as is, or stock photos of the item when brand-new. Ask the Seller Qs; if they refuse to answer, that’s a Full Stop. DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING: If you expect a dust cover, a lock, extra strap, exterior hanging item, interior mirror or flat pouch, ASK FIRST (if not clear from description). Your first luxury bag is your first investment-quality purchase; treat the process the same as buying a car, new or used.
I agree with all this, but my added advice would be to buy your first bag from the brand’s boutique or website so you know, without a doubt, it’s authentic. There are so many great fakes out there, even with endless research, you can get taken advantage of. You don’t want to taint your first experience with doubt. When you buy the genuine article you will see the little “luxury” details are often impressive, like a interior you thought was unlined is meticulously lined in a matching suede. This will help you know what to look for when you start to buy pre-loved.
Think about how a bag goes with your overall look and don’t buy just because the bag itself is beautiful. Next, think about function (how easy can you get it/our, does it fit your stuff well, is the material hardy enough for the way you intend to use it). Third, think about how often you will get to use it and whether you like it better than all of most of the other bags you own that would fulfill the same purpose.
I make sure that it will go with more than one outfit! For instance, I was in Dior and saw a beautiful grey tote that went perfectly with what I’m wearing. But it needed to go with more than just one outfit! 🙂
I’ve only started collecting recently but I’ve already learned that function matters as well as style. I’m someone who doesn’t have patience with a zipper, for instance, and want to be able to grab my phone quickly. You may admire it in the store, but when you are at the checkout line in the grocery store and need to find your phone quickly, it can get frustrating. On the opposite end, I have some panier bags that are wide open and whenever I slow down in traffic, they fall off the seat in my car and everything spills on the floor. Trying to figure out the perfect solution!
This is one of the most well thought-out articles I have read regarding how one could approach our shopping/collecting habits as social media sometimes pushes new and trend over secondhand. If I had one message to 2024, if you love it but socials say no way, go with your hearts desire, be your own influencer.
Fortunately I had an aunt from LA in the 90’s who gifted me stuff she didn’t want after she had a divorce closet clean out when I was a teenager. From old polo teeshirts, never worn Victoria secret bras, my first Dior mini backpack and a beat up chanel enamel wallet. That was the moment I fell in love with secondhand things. When I came into my own means I began buying secondhand luxury goods, mostly falling in love with a lot of ugly/non- trend pieces my own friends would get a laugh at. Well, 25 years later, many articles read and couture seasons come and gone, I have I taught myself that what I values and treasures doesn’t need to reflect current trends and that a bag has truly one function: to carry my stuff. One person’s castoff is my treasure at discount. Just because it’s old doesn’t mean it no longer has value. Not in season will comeback after a few cycles.
I still do get starstruck by an elegant woman carrying a Birkin or the lastest Chanel, and yes, I do go to boutiques and inspect what’s new, but I know after years of collecting 80’s to mid 00’s luxury purses that craftsmanship and materials have changed a lot and that classics silhouettes will always remain the standard of producers. As fall browns, shearling and suede season is trending again, I pull vintage suede and brown pieces from Chanel, Chloe, Hermes, Loewe, Miu-Miu, and YSL’s with pride. A decade ago my friends would laugh that suede was such a bad investment, well, two of them have borrowed from me this week.
“Be your own Influencer” is perfect; it says it all!
Don’t take anything purseblog says seriously. It’s all just an advertisement.
I do appreciate your username reference to ST:TNG 🙂
Don’t make a PurseForum account. It hypes bags that you don’t need and makes you feel like you can’t keep up with some other posters who buy seemingly all the time. Leave PurseForum and only read PurseBlog occasionally. It’s better for your mental health and financial well being.
Also, quit Facebook. It’s just nonsense and far-right memes.