In the last few months, we’ve seen seismic shifts within the fashion industry. Some brands have revamped their fashion calendars altogether, while others have showed collections digitally or without an audience, but one common ground amongst designers is that many expressed a move towards more pared down collections, both in size and in aesthetic. At Louis Vuitton, Nicholas Ghesquiere spent his time in quarantine resetting his focus, creating a more relaxed collection and focusing more on wearability than the avant-garde.
MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti spoke to Vouge in March, expressing intrigue towards how collections would look amidst this global pandemic we find ourselves in. He questioned how brand’s would resume business in a post-COVID world: Would consumers still have an appetite towards shopping? Would they prefer pure minimalism, or glamour and fun as a reprieve from all that’s been happening in the world?
Though now it is clear that a post-pandemic world is months, if not years ahead, we’ve also begun to see the shift towards more relaxed and wearable fashion moving forward. But, what does this mean for the collections that are releasing now? How will consumers relate to RTW, shoes and accessories that were designed in a pre-pandemic world? From odd shapes and exaggerated details to glamorous designs that feel more dressy and less appropriate for the everyday, are fall’s newest design’s destined for failure?
While mid and end of season sales may help indicate the success of these bags, which were designed during a period that seems like a lifetime ago, many of the new designs we’re seeing feel anything but paired down and wearable. As times are changing, our bags are too and the over the top glitz and glamour of some these designs feels off-putting and unrealistic.
I do think that many feel uneasy about shopping and especially high ticket items. I also think that we are thinking about dressing in a different manner, comfortable clothes rule right now. I would imagine that this will morph into something a bit different down the road. There are designers who always have laid back, extremely wearable clothing that in all reality is what the masses have always wanted. Purchases like the LV Neverfull, Gucci sneakers, Balenciaga denim jackets that are very wearable and timeless, that is what I am looking for now.
Start producing things that are functional for how life has evolved now. Not quasi-functional (“sweatpants” that are styled with heels and have to be dry cleaned) but actually functional. Sweats, tees, gym clothes that can be washed and are COMFORTABLE. Too much RTW (even cotton) is so stiff. So many of my SA now are showing me these great dresses, structured ladylike “luncheon” bags, blazers, tweed jackets, and I am like ….where on earth do you think I live? Where on earth would I actually go in this? I am going to the grocery store, MAYBE casual eating, the pharmacy, UPS/ Fedex, or to grab food or a smoothie. And granted, in a mask (you have to avoid lipstick or gloss these days cuz that’s just a disaster). Even if I do go out to a nice dinner, I mean, I am thinking easy, casual, uncomplicated…I am not sure much of the social “show” is going on these days. My 2 cents – I think life will be like this for quite some time, at least another year. SO make things we can live in, breathe in, function in and still try to have a little fun with that, at least.
Ugh! Don’t even SAY that. That’s all we need in this world is $5000 Chanel sweat pants! Sorry that should be $6500 with their new pricing system.
Nah. Their stuff isn’t that much. Tweeds and leathers, yeah, but sweaters (which I buy each season) are 2200-3500 about. Gucci/ LV are more reasonable at 1200-2200 or so. I just buy things I can wear with jeans, but I wish they would go down one more to super casual but wearable & functional. Chanel used to have an athletic gear line, which I think would be a great reintroduction during this pandemic. My point is that there are plenty of people spending money right now, luxury retail is through the roof in terms of sales currently (in Q3 thus far), so why not just produce things people can actually wear right now?
When you state “their stuff isn’t that much…sweaters about $2200-$3500”; I would consider that a big price for a sweater, despite the Chanel label. I recognize that opinions re: price, etc. are subjective, but Idk the reason they command such a large price. That’s something I’d be interested in looking into.
My response was to the poster above saying RTW pieces are 5000-6500. I am saying there are many things that are less than half of that. There’s no justification for those prices, like all luxury. But I will tell you the quality of Chanel RTW far surpasses the quality of their leather goods and accessories. First and foremost they are a fashion house, not a leather goods house.
I feel so hopeless as a result of the pandemic that I feel everything is failing.
Such an interesting question! There are so many different views, those who are going towards minimalism, those wanting to shop in order to reclaim some kind of pre-Covid normalcy (what was normal then). I am actually glad fashion houses have started to question their calendar, giving this is the second most impactful industry on the environment after fossil fuels….and seriously, who needs 345567 collections a year?!!! The more you give people, the more they get used to it and “need” it, so, let’s get used to less and actually enjoy our bags, shoes and clothes more:) Personally, I will continue shopping, I love fashion way too much but I will think twice before buying:))
Covid has also forced me to dramatically dial back my shopping. Whereas before I would impulsively buy something that I liked now I put it in my shopping cart and wait 1-2 weeks to determine if it ticks all the boxes. I’ve made two handbag purchases this year when typically I’d have bought 4-5. That’s true with clothes and household goods, too. Shopping was my retail therapy, but I’ve channeled that into other things that bring me joy like watching my grand children, running, reading, gardening, home remodels, etc. Also, my husband has never been happier that I’m shopping less. ?
I love this viewpoint. I think this is an opportunity for fashion houses to reconsider their trend towards fast-fashion (in terms of how rapidly they’re producing new collections, etc). And a chance for consumer to reconsider what’s in our closets and collections already, instead of trying to chase the latest and greatest. Maybe we can all dial back the decadence a bit with an eye towards sustainability and compassionate fashion instead. 🙂
It would be interesting for the luxury brands to learn about their forever-rising price strategy as many might no longer afford the prices they offer, or see these accessories as optional instead of necessity. The brands had a tough time after the 2008 financial crisis and regained the market back but this time is different and affecting way more people.
Yup. So many brands had bad financial results this year and are increasing their prices to make up for it, but unfortunately that’s just a very short term solution as many consumers that would have continued to buy are now completely priced out of the brand.
I think the response will also be different based on location and pandemic response. For example I see a spending reset amongst Americans, because with this looming recession, unemployment benefit lapse, and moratoriums on evictions ending today people’s priorities will be much more realistic. The budget consciousness won’t end until our pandemic response is one based on reality instead of propping up the orange one’s re-election chances ?.
In Europe and Asia they’ll probs ease back into pre-spending levels with it increasing proportionally with the level of reopening. Once outside is officially legal tho people over there will retail therapy like crazy to ease the trauma everyone’s been through.
“The Orange One” hilarious
Breadlines were 6 miles long in the south this spring. That is wrong. It’s highly disturbing that we pay our waitstaff $3/hr + measly tips. Minimum wage should be $33/hr if kept in line with inflation, yet it hovers below $10. One-third of American households did not pay their mortgages in July. I purchased my first Chanel in 2010 for $2300. Today that bag is $5000+. Why? Wages haven’t doubled for 99% of us. I used to obsess on this site in 2007/08. Now I fill my mind with knowledge because I love to be informed. My last designer purchase was summer ’16. While I love to window shop here, I cannot justify a new bag purchase when I know people are dying and children are hungry and 50% of the country doesn’t care. If anyone has a favorite charitable organization they’d like to share, please let me know. I’m ready to help. In fact, consider this endeavor my new “bag” purchase. Thank you.
I disagree that “50% of the people don’t care” and I’m always curious where people come up with their stats? “People” are overstressed due to everything Covid, the political climate, the inability to pay bills, feed family, etc. The current stressors even cause some people to take drastic measures to stop their pain. To alleviate stress and attempt to normalize their world some people shop. There is no right or wrong way to what people are doing to survive this epidemic. Many, if not all lives have been upheaved and the future is unknown. I try to give people the benefit of the doubt because what works for you, doesn’t work for me so it’s not fair to lump people into categories. You want to donate your money to an organization that can assist people and that’s great. The reality is that continuing to support the economy, by buying products, also provides jobs to individuals that have families and bills to pay, as well. The broader picture is not painted as black and white as you portray it.
Also millions of people work in the fashion industry. Boycotting and reverse snobbery would force those people out of work which this poster seems to not realize. I also find it surprising to post where she says “50% of the people don’t care” – presumably many occupying the space here where we all gather together to celebrate fashion retail – to ask for a suitable charity to donate to? And simultaneously vilifying this same group for not being philanthropic or full of the same “knowledge” she’s acquired since she’s left pb 12 years ago? I would assume she’d be knee deep in charity awareness considering her post, and the last group she’d ask for advice about the charity she should donate to would be the exact same group she’s rejected and who … don’t care? Lastly, one choice doesn’t preclude the other. Many people can buy AND give, and do, tremendously so. The best we as consumers can do to provide long-term fixes for the economy and unemployment is to spend spend spend. So cheers to that!
Ummmm…thank you for your service?
Dripping in sarcasm in your 2000 dollar Chanel sweater?
Absolutely!
This is a really good read. The fashion industry and the big houses need to reconsider their price increases as it doesn’t always translate to quality. The high demand and hypes created add a competition angle. This makes consumers put so much effort to getting that bag. I believe that consumers (from all wealth levels) want to get value for their money and want a good customer service. The fast movement of fashion impacts the environment and increases waste, it also decreases the quality of customer service. It would great to see the industry go back to bespoke and have more inclusive designs for consumers of different sizes and lifestyles. That said, fashion and shopping is an expression and an experience for many people. It can treated like art and entertainment industry (I.e. a novelty, hobby, an interest) just like people would pay so much for a ticket for a holiday or a a show, others will want a bag, shoe or jacket instead. Everyone is different, so what I deem a fair amount for a bag is different to others because my style, my environment and what my wardrobe needs is different. I do shop and will continue to shop but most of what I brought during COVID was well thought through, and I enjoyed the buying experience because of the less busy shops. SAs are much better and more active / responses so I have managed to get things delivered to my home- i guess COVID has made us shopping more personal which I am all for!
All I want to buy these days are good quality foods. I feel like I already have everything I need. Not many things excited me anymore.
The last time there was a major global pandemic like this, with much higher mortality and striking down those in the prime of their life (and the most productive members of the work force), it took about two years for normalcy to resume. It will not takes “years” for life to resume this time. Medicine is better, and the disease, while terrible, is much less deadly. With multiple vaccines of varying effectiveness, better treatments (some very promising currently in testing that have received much less attention than the vaccine race), and better understanding of the disease, life will almost certainly start to resemble the pre-pandemic world by the end of 2021. Fashion won’t change forever; rather, the relevant question is how it will survive this short-term crisis to emerge on the other side.
What was the last “major global pandemic like this” that you are referencing?