COVID-19 is changing the fashion landscape forever. Fashion brands have had no choice but to change the way that they do business, and though change has been a long time coming, it seems that a global pandemic has finally pushed luxury retailers to make big changes. Last month, Saint Laurent announced that it would overhaul its fashion schedule and reshape the pace of its calendar. Now Italian fashion house Gucci, alongside creative director Alessandro Michele, has announced its plan to do the same. The hope is that other brands will continue to follow suit, as industry leaders are calling for a complete reset of the fashion system.
Michele told The New York Times, “we need new oxygen to allow this complex system to be reborn,” stating that Gucci will reduce its show schedule to two from five each year. Fashion has long since been criticized for its environmental impact, and fashion shows are a large part of the industry’s massive carbon footprint. Reducing the number of shows produced per year is a huge step towards making fashion more sustainable, but revamping fashion’s entire schedule will be felt on a much broader scale as well.
In a move towards making fashion more inclusive and less gender specific, Michele also spoke of doing away with the divide between men’s and women’s wear by combing the collections and showing them as one. This move has been a longtime coming, and even prior to the COVID-19 crisis, under Michele’s direction, Gucci was arguably the most prominent luxury brand to embrace gender neutral fashion. Other brand’s have since followed suit, and now with the possibility of genderless, seasonless fashion schedules, the industry is on track to change for good.
The revamp was widely discussed and collaborated on with CEO Marco Bizzarri, but some logistics are still unclear, including when the new show schedule will begin. Michele did state that he believes spring and fall are the correct times for shows, though it will be nearly impossible to show this coming September. The brand has confirmed that it will take part in Milan’s digital fashion week this July by giving a glimpse of what would have been the brand’s cruise collection.
Change is coming, albeit slowly, but now with the backing of one of the most influential designers of our time, it’s incredibly apparent that the time for change is now. Who will be next?
Even though I am not a fan of his aesthetic AT ALL (I cringed when I saw his over the top attire in the image posted here), I commend him for the positive direction he is taking the brand ethos. Less is GENUINELY more. If I know a piece to be timeless and genderless, I am much more likely to spend my money on it compared to something that will be history by the next season. Totally on board!
So how does the reduction of fashion shows work? Do you eliminate New York, Milan, or Paris…I support it but this is a major change for the fashion industry.
I’m sure they are speaking of Cruise shows and pre-fall, and then combining men’s and women’s together. That should leave September and February and still would be in NYC/London/Milan/Paris. But right now they are all deciding where to go with this, so it’s yet to be seen!
Thank you. I have been to fashion week one time in my life (NYC) it was amazing. I watched the show but I was also looking at some of New York’s elite and their bags. (Marchesa show before the whole HW scandal).
I don’t want gender neutral fashion.
Me either. In my opinion, men’s clothes don’t fit the same. It doesn’t allow for boobs, hips, and butt. I don’t see the big deal with having men’s clothes and women’s clothes separate. As usual, I’m probably not “woke” enough to “get it” nor do I desire to be. Wear what you want. Who cares which section you get it from?
Wow, I didn’t think of that. Your point on the fit is absolutely correct. Women’s clothing must have a different cut to accommodate our shape. Maybe the designers want “gender neutral” because its cheaper to produce one line.
I do agree there are too many seasons. Why 5 shows? What’s the incentive to spend $$$ on a shirt if a new collection will be out next month? They’d probably sell more with fewer collections.
It often feels like we are always in the midst of a fashion week or just about to head into one somewhere on the planet. I think this is an exciting development and appreciate Gucci and Michele’s willingness to think outside the box and take a risk that is better for consumers and for the planet in the end.
As the undisputed king of the luxury market, LVMH could’ve been the one taking charge and setting the tone for everyone in its wake (and granted, maybe as a bigger company it takes longer for these discussions to play out internally), but as of yet, Kering is the one that looks more progressive and forward-thinking.
I don’t understand this odd push for gender neutral fashion – fashion is distinct for women and men based on their bodies but either one can buy and wear anything they want based on their like and preferences.
Why does the fashion industry want to force this stuff on society?
I don’t know any man who would want to be caught dead in that atrocity he is wearing in this post – even Jared Leto can’t make this crap look good!
I don’t know many 5’1 men with 24 inch waists and 37 inch bottoms…. the “doing away” with genders sounds like a way to do away with tailoring the clothes to fit women.
It’s like how they allow boys who haven’t transitioned into girls run track in the states, it’s pushing women off the scene.
Excuse me! What we have here is biblical…”nothing new under the sun”. Shades of 1960’s with a new name and spin. Still silly and not worth wearing.
For the past several years everything seems forced, trite and “too cute” by half and/or recycled. Perhaps it is the 5/season shows. Perhaps it is a lack of creativity. There is always a place for a fun statement piece but well tailored (I.E. gender specific, not neutral) basics just can’t be beat! Enduring finish and quality. The clown show that is AM at Gucci is just too over the top and recycled for me.
The only neutral fashion I enjoy are the Japanese brands, Issey Miyake etc. I want clothes from European designers that are not neutral gender, the neural gender clothing does not take into account the differences between the anatomy of a female and male body structure. Also if I’m going to pay the amount of money designer clothing costs I don’t want to go to a dinner party and see Bob wearing my outfit in any form.
There is no “divide” between women’s and men’s apparel. There is thoughtfulness that goes into different shapes and silhouettes per GENDER. Yes, GENDER. I don’t want to look like I am wearing a potato sack, and I assure you my husband would find no pleasure in twinning. I enjoy looking feminine, and have plenty of ways to bring out my inner butch if I want to (Balmain/ McQueen). I don’t have a bulge down there and I got a boob job because I wanted….BOOBS. So dress me in a way that complements my shape, not destroys it. I work hard for it.
Second, this is faux pandering b/c it’s just more expensive old navy. Cut a box, sell it en masse, call it being “woke” and genderless, and walk away Mr. Profiteer.