Okay, so, just straight off the top: the branding we’re about to discuss is confusing, and may very well be part of the problem. (If you believe there is a problem. But we’ll get to that!) Calvin Klein is a brand, but it’s also a bit of a conglomerate unto itself, with accessibly priced lines of jeans, intimate apparel, accessories, fragrance—you get the idea. The less expensive lines also include clothing, shoes, and bags, and over the years, shoppers have understandably come to associate the name with mass-market prices, even though Calvin Klein never stopped producing a designer-level line. Which brings us to Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, the confusing name that designer Raf Simons chose as the moniker for that top-tier line when he took over creative control of the brand in 2016.
The name is an abbreviation for the address of the brand’s global headquarters, and I don’t know if you’ve ever been to West 39th Street in Manhattan, but it sucks. It’s near Port Authority and there’s nowhere good to eat and everything is especially grimy and unpleasant. It’s also in the Garment District, so I understand why the brand chose to emphasize that very traditionally New York fashion part of its history, but the series of letters and numbers probably just confuses anyone unfamiliar with Manhattan topography, and for those of us who are familiar with it, West 39th Street is unlikely to bring up anything other than negative associations. Nevertheless! That’s the new name of the fancy sector of the brand, which we are all supposed to remember now. Usually branding is memorable and catchy, but, ya know, very avant-garde of Calvin Klein not to feel constrained by those expectations.
Anyway, thank you for bearing with me while I got that out of my system and got to the point: This high-end line now features a steadily increasing number of bags, and now that a few seasons have gone by, the line has gotten into a design rhythm and more retailers have picked up styles from the collection. Calvin Klein, as a high-end brand, had never put much (if any) emphasis on bags in the past, but the brand’s intention to expand in the accessories market under 205W39NYC seems clear. So now that the bags are are the bags any good? I think the honest answer to that is, “No, they haven’t been, but they’re getting notably better.”
I don’t envy the task set in front of a design team that needs to create an entire premier designer handbag line out of whole cloth. Most brands that successfully sell bags at the top price tiers have a whole lineup of signature details and flourishes (logo prints and hardware, signature structures and details like flared gussets or quilted leather) that are used to signal heritage and luxury to shoppers, as well as to promise anyone who buys that their good taste will be acknowledged by other similarly savvy consumers. Essentially, they’re cheat codes.
Since CK has never previously made much of an impression on high-end handbag shoppers, the designers don’t have any of those things to work with, and instead, they have to find a way to embody the style of a somewhat minimalist brand and a way that feels super luxurious. And they have to do it in a way that makes shoppers feel like they’re making a wise spending decision when they plunk down $2,000 or more for a bag, which is nearly impossible to do without an immaculate brand history (which Calvin Klein doesn’t have, because it’s been selling clothes in every mall in America for so long) or any well-established signifiers.
In the bag line’s first few seasons of existence, the results of that effort were too anonymous and indistinct, which is a poor value proposition for luxury shoppers in a market with lots of options. Most of those bags made it into the deep-discount late days of seasonal sales, which is not a great first impression to make on prospective buyers. From what I’ve seen so far, though, the designs that are arriving at retail for Fall 2018 are headed in the right direction. The details are getting more refined, the shapes are getting more distinct, some brand signatures are starting to take shape. And, importantly, it seems as though CK has moderated its prices a bit—styles that have been available previously are still climbing toward $3,000, but new designs are largely in the under-$2,000 range. The best of the new group is a trim saddle bag with simple finishes; while not exactly super distinct, it at least looks like a bag that belongs at its price level. If Calvin Klein intends to be a real player in the market, though, it still has a ways to go. Check out a few of the new Calvin Klein 205W39NYC bags below, and let us know what you think.
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Saddle Bag
$1,950 via Net-a-Porter
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Triangle Shoulder Bag
$1,150 via Net-a-Porter
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Vanity Case
$735 via farfetch.com
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC x Andy Warhol Foundation Printed Pouch
$490 via Net-a-Porter
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Bucket Tote
$2,027 via farfetch.com
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Embossed Tote
$2,860 via farfetch.com
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Flag Tote
$1,485 via farfetch.com
all don’t look like worth over $1000…
Look more like $100
In my small, arguably poor country, CK, Michael Kors, Guess, Tommy Hilfiger, Coach, Kate Spade are overpriced and considered high-end brands by the average consumer (no shade, KS is one of my very favorite brands). We have no TJ Maxx, Ross or Marshalls and I have a conspiracy theory that some places sell made for outlets stuff in regular stores. Of course, people also know that Chanel and Hermes exists and those who can afford them, buy them. But generally people think that mid-end ends at €100 and anything above must be amazing quality (lol) or a huge splurge. But these assumptions depend entirely on the person’s income.
Completely agree! And when started to read your post – my first impression was – like in Latvia 🙂
Are you brazilian? hahahah it looks a lot like my country
Latvian! Lol I think a lot of places are like this.
I don’t care for this line but tbh, I wouldn’t purchase it regardless. I don’t see the quality or distinction in this line or Tory Burch, Michael Kors or MK or KSpade or Coach or a few others that I cannot recall. No matter if it were beautifully designed, my subconscious wouldn’t allow me to be content with this purchase but continue to nag with buyer’s remorse. As I get older, some of the brands I used to cherish aren’t the same anymore. Balenciaga & Burberry to name a couple.
I’m not sure but I do know there isn’t any way I’d purchase once my mind is made up.
No.
I could actually get behind this IF these bags were made in the U.S. with classic, handsome yet practical designs, outstanding materials that would last for years, and flawless workmanship. IOW, if CK turned this brand into the Coach I knew and loved growing up, not the Coach I see today. Otherwise, what’s the value add? Why do they think buyers will turn to them instead of the many other luxury brands out there? Sure, they can give these away to the fashion social media “celebrities” who never say no to a freebie but I can’t imagine any serious purchaser thinking, yes, of course I’ll spend my money on this bag instead of one from Celine, Dior, Ferragamo, Fendi, Prada, Burberry, Alexander McQueen, etc etc etc…or one of the less expensive quality brands like Polene.
Meh…
I don’t understand Raf’s strategy. When brands cater so long to a specific market I find it’s hard to jump over that … big NO for me!
The name is not easy to remember.
No, I won’t buy these. Same goes with Kate Spade nowadays their bags have very long name, I don’t want to buy long name bags or designers. I’m weird I know.
Calvin Klein should probably start with pulling those cheap, plastic bags out of discount stores.
Everything looks very margiela to me. Missed the mark for sure.
No, these will all come in the Sample Sale for 90% off
When I first saw this brand in Nordstrom, I was confused, then I was sticker shocked. You want how much for this bag?!?!? No thank you!
I saw last seasons on the Neiman Marcus website on considerable sale a few months back. I wouldn’t pay full retail, even if I liked the bag, based on the assumption it would just go on sale eventually. And I wouldn’t worry about any version selling out. I think they need to keep going, but should work on the quality. Even in the pictures, it doesn’t look like it’s top notch.
No
Did you say Calvin Klein or Zara?
Nope! For the very reason I won’t buy Valentino or Ralph Lauren. If the brand of my multi thousand dollar bag can be confused for something found at an outlet store for $50, I’m not interested.
If I say it’s Ralph Lauren, the immediate thought is oh it’s from JCPennys and was $80.
Valentino Garavani is ruined for me by Mario Valentino. Although not as badly as RL or Calvin Klein.
Really any brand that has a bunch of lower priced lines but share similar names is a huge turn off for me and I avoid, or a brand with a similar name as a brand that can be found in outlet stores across the Midwest.
Not to mention that HIDEOUS embossing that says
“Calvin Klein established in 1958 Designed in America Consumed around the world conceived in NYC 205 w39th st.”
That in itself is a deterrent.
“Really any brand that has a bunch of lower priced lines but share similar names is a huge turn off for me and I avoid, or a brand with a similar name as a brand that can be found in outlet stores across the Midwest.”
So brand conscious.
Are we not talking about branding? Especially how a luxury brand positions itself and makes itself known to consumers? If a luxury brand fails to position itself above the masses, then how can it successfully command the premium pricing it wants?
Thank youuuuu
I like the saddle bag but that is a lot of money for something that looks like many other bags in the market. I have bought and sold many bags and lost money along the way, and got so exhausted hunting down each season’s new ones that beginning this year, I am only looking at Chanel classic flaps in black. They are many times more than these bags, of course, but I find saving for them and buying fewer is less stressful. Plus I know they have a good resale value if I ever want to sell them. I’m not spending $2k for each new Gucci or Givenchy or Saint Laurent anymore. If they were under $1k I would consider them.
I never felt sorry for a bag brand before, but I do feel sorry for Calvin Klein. Sounds like a lot of work was put in to design these bags, but the end result is tepid at best. I cannot see anything special about any of these bags, especially at this price point. Some of these bags look like a whimsical detour which can be afforded only by a well-established and already-successful bag brand.
It’s indeed a tough job to create premier line, instead of low end one. I’m wondering where the bags are made.
The Warhol tote — Yes. Got it. Love it. Would get the pouch as well, but that is way overpriced
Saddle bag looks beautiful but I would not spend that much $ for it.
I like the bucket bag a lot, it’s giving me updated/modern Celine vibes, unfortunately it’s also giving me Celine prices which I like a lot less.
Nope. The brand is tarnished for me…I think the rebranding process would need a slow evolution. You can’t be mass market, then decide to jump to premium and expect consumers to accept that. It’s a process of slowly climbing up and proving that your products are worth the money. Also, that name. It’s trying way too hard and is too difficult to remember off-hand…not something that makes a lasting impression, which is what they needed.
what is so avant-garde about doing bad versions of other brands’ direction & products ?
shouldn’t raf be walking his own path and look for a new market for their bags ?
I’m glad you feature the brand coz we don’t have it here and I like Raf’s work at Dior so much. I think the collection is still here and there. They still need some time to find their own footing. They don’t have character yet and the price doesn’t seem to match the look. Too bad quality can’t be detected from photo alone. I want to see them success though.