I’ve loved handbags for as long as I can remember. Even as my personal style transformed over the years, I have always felt the need to carry around a nice bag. I can’t really come up with any sound reasoning for it but I do remember that there was one special day in 2004 when I was gifted a velour Juicy Couture Daydreamer tote that resulted in my lifelong love affair with purses. Now, two decades later, I am still eye-balling the trendiest pieces of the times and plotting on how to make them mine (which unsurprisingly, is much easier to do as an adult than as a middle-schooler.)
For the past 8 months, I have been in hot pursuit of my next big purchase; I pass my evenings refreshing webpages of reseller sites and watching what yet another YouTuber has to unbox. I peruse through hundreds of lengthy PurseForum threads and I even search for bags of interest on Instagram and Pinterest to examine how exactly I would style them.
More and more, I began to notice how the bags that we luxury lovers gravitate towards are, more often than not, from European brands. This isn’t to say that those brands aren’t entitled to their place in the handbag hierarchy, after all, multiple decades of releasing praise-worthy pieces should definitely give them the respect that they deserve, but accent marks and silent letters abound, at some point it became clear to me that it’s all about the French prestige, the Italian leather, the Spanish design.
Of course, I also understand that there are a decent number of British brands that have made a name for themselves and that every country produces something that they are well-known for, but I still sometimes wonder – do we undervalue bags made by American fashion houses?
Now, when I say value I mean it in terms of significance, not monetarily. Sure, we’ve got Coach and Marc Jacobs but those are what many of us would categorize as “premium” as opposed to “luxury” or “high-end.” But what about higher-end brands like Tom Ford? It’s got a leg up on brands like Micheal Kors in terms of prestige and price point but rarely do I see it included in any of those glamorous handbag collection videos and never mentioned as holding a top spot on anyone’s wish list, including my own.
This little curious thought was forced to the front of my mind again when I last visited my local luxury boutique. Just from browsing around, I couldn’t help but notice the select few Tory Burch styles situated in a sea of Gucci, Prada, Chloé, Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Valentino. To be honest, this confused me even more because while I adore TB (shout out to this trusty tote!), I can acknowledge my own bias: I never pegged it as being as opulent as the aforementioned European brands. The same goes for brands like Philip Lim and Proenza Schouler.
Maybe I’m reading too much into it or maybe I’m just a snob, who knows really, but I can’t stop asking myself: why does it seem like we overlook those that originated a little closer to home?
I want to know everyone else’s thoughts.
Where do bags by American brands fit into our collections? Are they forever destined to be seen more as cute n’ casual as opposed to glamorous and elegant? Do you think there is an American brand that doesn’t get as much love as it deserves?
American brands are too corporate, driven by sales targets and profits. They stick with formulas that sell and are not as experimental as non-Americas brands. It’s just business, no passion, no fantasy or romance, nothing aspirational.
Rarely have I seen a bag from an American brand that I HAD to have.
So sad but so very true.
Thought provoking and a good reflection for me. My view, which may or may not be shared by others, is:
1. North American brands are seen more as the “functional/utilitarian” choice vs the amazing leather/sophisticated choice. I love my RM Julian backpack and it’s smooshy leather, and understated style – but even so it doesn’t have the same feel as my BV or Tod’s.
2. There’s a difference between a brand that is based in North America but produced elsewhere and a brand that is both based in and produced in North America. Off the top of my head I can’t think of a mainstream North American purse brand that also produces in North America. (Though there likely are some!)
3. We (North Americans) have been conditioned to be biased and perceive European brands and lifestyle as more luxurious – magazine spreads, heck even PB articles love including phrases like “Italian made”. And we love reading things like “how to dress Parisian”.
That said – when it comes to more sporty things, that’s where you see North American brands like Nike and Lululemon shine.
I agree, but I have to point out that “Made in Italy” is legally protected- it’s a mark of quality (protects heritage craftsmanship by protecting manufacturing) that is not 100% the concoction of abstract marketing/mystique.
I think Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler are in league with Chloé, Gucci et al.
My absolute go to American brand are Mark Cross and The Row. I think they are worth the price.
I am not a fan of buying bag because of house heritage. I buy a bag because I love it. That’s all.
I love Schouler!!
Thanks for reminding me of Mark Cross. Great for classics.
I wish I could love The Row. I feel like their prices are just a bit too high for me which I’m guessing is on purpose (it’s luxury after all). In contrast I’ve dropped similar prices even for no-name brands (pure cashmere long vests etc), or Max Mara and the like which isn’t all that fancy. But The Row any time I like something from them I go “you should be a few hundred dollars cheaper for me to buy you”.
Weird, I know, but I can’t shake the feeling that they’re priced “out of my range”.
Do you like every category they’re in, or only some (tops/accessories/etc)?
Yes The Row are expensive! I don’t buy their RTW unless very good on sale. But their bag and shoes I often paid full price. And that’s what I mean by worth the price. Their shoes is more comfortable and last longer than Chanel. Mark Cross in the other hand, I think is the best american bag brand.
Thanks for the intel on the shoes. I’ll be checking them out!
YES about The Row. I like a lot of the designs but it’s crazy to start a new brand and automatically charge Chanel prices for your stuff. I feel like because of their history of being child stars they felt like they needed to show they were serious designers and that this was SO different than the branded stuff they sold for Walmart lol that they went a little overboard on the pricing.
I find The Row grossly overpriced for what it is.
I think Coach has been able to pivot so nicely from the crap it was selling ten years ago. There is still work to do though. First and foremost, say goodbye to easy cash and close those outlet stores. They just devalue the brand. They also make pricing so blurry with fake MSRP tags and constant arbitrary discounts on products that were never intended to be sold in retail boutiques. It feels like you’re shopping at Ross. Those outlet stores are a big turn off.
Coach is a big turn off for me, but when I pass the outlet store they have a strong consumer presence. Until that dissipates (if ever) the outlets aren’t going anywhere soon; however, I agree they need to be phased out to lend more credibility to the brand.
Majority of Coach’s sales comes from its outlet stores, not retail so I highly doubt those stores will be closed anytime soon.
Agree 1000% especially the outlet stores and fake MSRP.
I still have bags from the 80’s that were made in New York and Italy. No comparison to today’s bags.
Agree 100%. If Coach wants to re-issue those old styles (and it seems they do) or slightly tweaked versions of those classics, then they should stick to the original quality standards for materials and workmanship as well. And make them in the U.S.
The only Coach I have are vintage ones that were made in Manhattan. In a similar brand story, I was very saddened when J.W. Hulme closed their historic factory in St. Paul, MN after manufacturing there since 1905. The brand still exists but they outsource (probably China?) now to increase their profit margins. This has totally ruined the “heritage” brand for me and I don’t want to own any of their new goods (but I have three older bags that I cherish).
Fashion has been Eurocentric for far too long. When we step away from that, we open up a world of innovation. That’s why it’s important to develop you’re own sense of what you truly love.
I think Ralph Lauren definitely deserves a mention here because yes, they have more budget-friendly ranges but the Ricky is sooo good and so luxurious! RL is what I envision when I hear American Luxury. That being said, yes, Euro brands have always had a stronghold over the luxury industry, especially with the scores of mergers and/or takeovers by LVMH or Kering that seems to consolidate and bolster their European identity a lot. Maybe the US just needs some unity between all the brands it houses (like Coach, RL, TB, Kate Spade, etc). Clichéd, but possibly effective.
There is. Tapestry holds coach and Kate Spade. Not to the extent that Kering and LVMH though. Also there’s a difference in Ralph Lauren and RL and RRL. Which confuses the consumer more. Kinda like Marc by Marc and MKC and MK.
I absolutely love the Ricky. It’s the only American luxury brand bag that I want and am willing to pay for, though, because I echo you in that it’s the bag that personifies American luxury to me. I like that they are employing artisans for these bags. It makes them very luxurious and special. Yet I do admit it also serves as an example of American brands undermining (having a bias against) American talent too because these bags are made in Italy. So, it’s not just American consumers not seeing the value in American brands, but these brands themselves not seeing the value in the American artisan. I’d love an American luxury brand that employed artisans here too because they do exist. Then perhaps we can all see the value in American luxury at long last.
If most American brands quit outsourcing to countries that don’t have proper labor laws, then perhaps they’ll have a comeback. For now, they are cheap quality that don’t last like they did in the brands’ heyday. So, people prefer to shell out for other brands and look to them for prestige. They also cheapened their own image by opening outlets on top of the subpar quality. They can always relabel themselves if they want to, but they seem more interested in quick profits.
and that will never happen. Because the CEO wants all the $ and will not pay a decent wage to their employees and then charge $$$ for a basic bag. It is just ridiculous!
Lately I been thinking a lot about that also. We should look more for the ones closest to home. You’re so right. Thank you, I truly enjoy your article.
Coach has definitely come back strong (The oxblood personalized Cassie is perfect) and I think Proenza Schouler PS1 is a low-key classic and one of the best handbags around in tons of colors, prints and sizes.
Economic value is by definition the amount you are willing to pay compared to the actual purchase price. The reason for your willingness to pay can vary – your income, preferences, price of alternate similar bags, etc. ‘Monetary’ always has something ‘significant’ behind it, two faces of the same coin. $200 for someone low income vs $200 of someone high income have different values.
So, for the exact same model of a Marc Jacobs bag, would people be willing to pay more for the one made in Italy than USA? Probably the former, because Italy is synonymous with good quality leather and bag craftsmanship.
Would people have a higher willingness to pay for a Mulberry bag made in England than Hungary? Probably.
So, I think it’s more the location of production rather than the brand.
I also forgot to elaborate that people do see as made in the USA as quality and craftsmanship, especially in leather goods. It’s other countries with lax labor laws that they have this bias against.
I see what you’re saying, but most of these bags aren’t even made in the USA. I actually do think Americans would be willing to pay more to support an American brand if it is in their means. Coach’s entire legacy was originally that it was made here and they had great craftsmanship and quality, but then they closed down their factories in the US and started having bags made in other countries that are known for producing cheap labor and having lax labor laws. People used to shell out money then despite it being luxury and this was before they started with the outlets and cheaper prices too. Granted, it was not as expensive as other luxury brands, but still luxury nonetheless. So, I’m basically saying I don’t agree and there is a long history of people appreciating American luxury when it was still American and I think that would continue today.
I actually hold American brands in very high esteem; especially when I can find a legitimate one.
Out sourcing in China is not American, and quite frankly, a huge turn off for me.
Too many outlets items killed American brands… Kate spade, Coach, J Crew to name a few…
I have always looked for quality of materials/workmanship and design over who designed/made a purse. I might be one of a handful of people that think that brown LV Purses are butt ugly. I purchase mostly Coach and Dooney purses because they are durable and come in styles I like. Coach let itself down by producing cheap looking fabric bags now made in China (I think) I prefer leather always. I own one small Gucci, Brightons, Coaches and that’s about it. I would kill for a Burberry because I’m British but I don’t see value for money. I refuse to be brainwashed by these “luxury brand” companies and the personalities that can afford to buy their overpriced stuff. Buy what you like.