The handbag market is dominated by huge designer brands, and many fall under the same luxury conglomerate, but in the past few years, a slew of smaller designers have made waves in the market. It’s arguable that this trend started back in 2012, with the introduction of New York based brand Mansur Gavriel. The original indie brand, Mansur Gavriel’s bucket bag burst onto the scene and became an instant hit among fashion’s most elite insiders. Editors, celebrities and savvy consumers alike lusted after the brand’s coveted, and scare, bag. Mansur Gavriel’s seemingly overnight success paved the way for all of the indie brands that came after, in part because they convinced both retailers and shoppers to be more open to shopping brands other than premium designer. Making a name for oneself in the market these days is no easy feat. Handbag lovers are typically more comfortable placing their dollars in the hands of a brand they recognize—one that has a storied history behind it and years of a good reputation to back it up. This makes it incredibly difficult for emerging brands to see success, which is why Mansur Gavriel’s story is all the more inspiring.
In the last 3 years or so new bag brands have popped up in droves, many falling under the same contemporary price point. While new brands are fresh and exciting, which entices consumers who are sick of seeing the same 4-5 designers over and over again, that hype can also fade off fast. Contemporary bags, which cost a fraction of what a premium designer would charge for the same size and shape, are much more disposable. It’s arguable that contemporary bags act more like a ‘fast fashion’ item–think Zara or Forever 21—they’re good for a few seasons and then they lose their luster. However if a brand can strike the proper balance of trendy and classic, with quality materials it is possible for them to stick around for a few years, and Mansur Gavriel is the perfect example. But what about, 30, 40 or even 50 years down the line? Are these indie designers the future of fashion?
We’ve discussed in depth how new handbag brands are popping up left and right, and despite the frequency with which new bag brands appear it seems that many of them aren’t going anywhere anytime soon. STAUD, Little Liffner, and Danse Lente are current hot indie picks. The question however remains, when the hype dies down can any of these brands sustain themselves well into the future? Mansur Gavriel was able to ride the hype and turn its teeny upstart into a full-fledged brand name, but they were the first. Can any of these new brands do the same or will they disappear as fast as they came?
Little Liffner Little Lady Swirl Bag ($475)
Danse Lente Phoebe Bis Acetate Closure Bag ($495)
Manu Atelier Cylinder Shoulder Bag ($400)
By Far Amber Shoulder Bag ($715)
STAUD Moon Bag ($295)
I think this article does a disservice by not going farther back. Before Mansur Gavriel, there was Rebecca Minkoff, Kooba and some other early 2000s contemporary brands. I haven’t seen a Kooba bag in years. Rebecca Minkoff is still around and I see her bags in the wild but I feel like the hype has definitely died and you can be assured that almost any bag can be had for a heavily discounted price. Most of these new indie brands will follow a similar path. Most of these brands have succeeded because of social media, but social media is fickle and constantly moving onto the next best thing.
My first designer bag was a Kooba Sienna I got on eBay for $100. Always fond memories of that brand.
I think that a lot of the time brands seem to think that they’ve made it, and that they can finally take a break. But, the thing is that you have to constantly move forward in the business world otherwise, the business will suffer because customers just aren’t interested. In other words there is no finish line in business.
Well said!!
This is why I love discussions like this, you guys always share such valid points/views!
I do remember Kooba being huge back in the early 2000s. My older cousin had one and I wanted one too because I wanted to be just like her.
Am I the only one that doesn’t know what you mean by “Indie bags”? What is the definition of an “Indie bag”? I’m not familiar with this term. Thx.
Indie is for independent movies, designers etc
I found my answer on Wikipedia. “The indie design movement is made up of independent designers, artists, and craftspeople who design and make a wide array of products ? without being part of large, industrialized businesses. The indie design movement can be seen as being an aspect of the general indie movement and DIY culture”.
Yes! Also another point to consider is that these brands are up and comers, still making a name for themselves.
Yes, that’s a good point. Also, I was frustrated when I read the article when “Indie” wasn’t defined. However, since other posters were familiar with the term, I did my due diligence, and looked it up. I like to be current and felt so out of the loop, but all is fine.
I’m also curious re: how long a brand maintains its “Indie” status? For instance if a brand is successful, for let’s say for 10 years, but never becomes part of “an industrialized business” does it still fall under the scope of “Indie”? Maybe my question is kind of dumb, but I just wondered about all of the facets re: an Indie brand. Thx!
I think many will disappear but some will stay, like with anything else.
I like bags from Mother of Pearl. I think indie bag designers who do well are ones who have solid marketing teams who know how to bring a bag to market, just like how consumer packaged goods companies create products. Sounds a bit cold but the handbag market is so competitive. As Megan said, social media is fickle and people move on fast.
I’ve been tempted by some indie designers, but I’m very wary of going back to treating handbags as disposable, as I did in my youth. I’m trying to be more responsible as a consumer and being mindful of both the environmental impact of my behavior and the perception of materialism that I teach to my son (who is right now only three years old). I like having bags that I can carry for twenty or thirty years (I’ve owned my first designer bag – an LV Speedy 25 – for over 20 years, since I was in high school, only recently having replaced much of the vachetta leather that had become very dry and damaged; and someday I’ll hand it down to my niece, who is not yet a teenager but still finds it “cool” and covetable despite being from an entirely different generation from yours truly); but it’s certainly difficult to resist the lure of something new and trendy. So I guess I do think most of these independent designers who are so “in” right now have a fairly short shelf life. Few things in fashion become a “classic,” and there’s a fine line between carrying something that makes people think “vintage” and carrying something that makes people think “dated.” (Wear and carry what you love, of course, but it’s something to consider if looking current or timeless is a concern to you). I suppose my hesitation to buy a bag from these brands is an unconscious testament to what I think of their staying power.
Very well thought out and insightful commentary! I totally agree with the point you make about treating handbags as disposable and that’s a true issue in the social media age where consumers are constantly moving on the the next best thing.
Another poorly researched PB article. MG is the “original” indie brand? What nonsense! First of all define what you mean by an “indie” brand. Do you mean a brand that only makes (or started off only making) handbags? There are many.
Have you forgotten about Kate Spade? It was founded in 1993 as bags only and is FAR more successful and influential than MG will ever be. What about Coach? Dates back to 1941. You’re getting paid to report on fashion. Know your subject.
londoncalling: Oh, my! You sound like the Indie fashion police. To admonish someone in such a rude, blatant manner does not get your message across. In fact, it tends to do the opposite and puts people on the defensive. You don’t have to agree with the author, as is your right, but my goodness there are kinder ways to get your message across. Hopefully, you were having a bad day and you are not really so mean spirited.
I wouldn’t consider this poorly researched as I chose to put the focus on current indie bag brands that are relevant right now, in 2019, so, yes I would consider MG the original. Though your points are valid those brands are no longer considered indie in my opinion.
It would be interesting to consider brands like Botkier, and other ones that were indie around the launch of Purseblog. And what happened to them.
Megs covered Botkier earlier this year! See here: https://www.purseblog.com/botkier/what-happened-to-botkier/
Has P.B. covered the Roger Vivier Beau bag? This is a fantastic, minimalist, elegant bag! I was not familiar with it until a poster identified it in another blog.
When i first ever saw mansur gavriel bucket bag , instantly remembered my first couch bag , i bought it in 1992 was a saddle bag style but in that luxurious rich leather that says moooh . And when i saw in real life the mansur gavriel bag , the leather was truly dissapointing … I truly think that unless you give some innovative bag to the world ( ie the wrapped dress by DVF in 70’s in a chanel tweed jacket fashion world ) Is practically imposible to subsist as a heritage house .Even more difficult because of this Instagram era ( who is grabbing a cult gaia bag ? ) And the kate spades / couch / marc jacobs ( that subsists only because they loose their essence as a designer to become a conglomerate ( this is only personal thoughts not preaching ? ?? )
my god ? * Coach * Wrap dress
“Couch” made me laugh, but only because I tried to visualize a “couch” handbag. Also, “imposible” is really spelled “impossible”. I’m not trying to be picky, but sometimes words just jump out at me. I would hope that if I ever made a spelling, etc. error you would be kind enough to correct me, too. ?
Absolutely ? I really aprecciate corrections … english is not my native language so keep doing it ?
IMHO nearly everything started as an “indie” brand. Where there was talent, innovation, creativity that met a level of demand or filled a void, those brands became successful. With success and demand comes increased production, facilities, supply chains, etc, and profitability = mother ships wanting to buy the company. By that time, lots of these once indie designers are exhausted and burned out, ready to jump ship and take a break. And we know what happens from there.
No, I don’t think indie designers are the future. Because if people truly loved their designs, they would no longer be “Indie” as they grow large to accommodate demand. If they don’t have large demand, and make 100 bags a season, the staying power of non-demand items like that will be nil. Look at fragrance houses for example, like Le Labo, which I used to adore! They became so popular as a “niche” “indie” brand that EL bought them. Now there are solo retail stores, quality and creativity have declined to appeal towards a more vanilla crowd (pun intended) and the heart of their rise to indie star status has faded. Same thing happens with wines, vodkas, other spirits, restaurants, skincare, jewelry, apparel, you name it. A “successful indie” brand is oxymoronic.
Well said! Very insightful! I totally agree with you, it’s like a double edged sword, if a brand does grow and succeed it’s no longer considered indie, and if it doesn’t, there’s a chance it simply won’t sustain.
I know. It’s sad actually. Nearly every new company’s charter statement refers to success stemming from growth. Growth means sales. Sales mean expansion. Expansion means increasing profits by reducing production costs. Hand-made to machine. Locally artisan made to outsourced factory. Then either it sustains growth and is bought out, or it all goes to Saks Off 5th and dies. I think it would be hard for any company to say “we don’t want growth. In fact, we will tolerate no such thing”. So if growth is always the mission, from an “indie” point of view, it’s always set up to fail.
Wandler is another fabulous indie brand. I bought one last Spring to take to Europe and I love it.
What about Loeffler Randall? Is this indie brand still relevant today? I used to like Rebecca Minkoff. Didn’t know that it has lost its staying power. Nowadays, it is Mansur Gavriel, Cult Gaia and Wandler that catch my attention.
Loeffler Randall—good point! Yet, I’m not sure I would consider it ‘indie’ anymore…it’s a bit older now, like Rebecca Minkoff. Both were founded in the early-mid 2000s. As anything though I think the definition of indie is a bit fluid and open to discussion. Good mention!
I have checked a bit the little Liffner models, I like the design. I think that they are recreating, reinterpreting some classical handbag core lines from the 50s. Unfortunately, the manufacture looks poor, they mainly use embossed leather in almost all the models. I have even sent them a comment about it. I think that those models if they were made in full grain leather could reach other level. I guess that their customers do not see the difference, just buy the handbag shape.
On the other hand, I have found by chance high full grain aniline leather and top design and manufacture in a few models from Spanish brand Adolfo Dominguez, and also the Danish brand Decadent. Decadent started an indie brand but the success make them move to another status. I think that the indie concept in handbags brands is trying to get a space in the market offering design but very seldom the quality leather and manufacture that handbag-lovers are looking for. They aim for other group of consumers.