Upheaval at big design houses has been the new normal for at least the past five years, and now another long-tenured creative director has left his post in favor of a young upstart. Thomas Maier, who has led Bottega Veneta for the better part of two decades, has designed his last collection for the house. In the position going forward will be Daniel Lee, a 32-year-old Central Saint Martens alum who worked at brands like Balenciaga and Maison Margiela before becoming director of ready-to-wear at Céline in 2012, under the leadership of Phoebe Philo.
It makes sense for Bottega Veneta to look to a Philo protege to lead the brand into its next era; both Maier and Philo have a sensibility that centers the needs and wants of grown, professional women who want to look amazing without really having to think about it—they’re the kind of clothes you’d expect to see on the director of an art gallery or the editor of a magazine. Céline’s ready-to-wear was both trend-setting and widely critically acclaimed during Lee’s tenure, and he’ll likely bring a similarly modern viewpoint to BV.
What parent company Kering seems to be baking on, though, is that Lee will translate the spirit of Bottega Veneta into a look that’s as enticing to younger shoppers as Maier’s look was for their parents’ generation. In the Wall Street Journal, Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault is quoted earlier this year as being skeptical of the power of subtle luxury and brand heritage to win the hearts and minds of millennial consumers and those coming after them, and Maier’s staid work at BV might not have been contemporary enough for Pinault’s preferences, especially after the bombshell success of a young designer at another of his brands: Alessandro Michele at Gucci.
Although Lee’s considerable experience and mentorship under Phoebe Philo suggest that we’re not going to lose what makes Bottega special, as you can imagine, the brand’s most ardent current fans at our PurseForum are generally not celebrating the move. It’s too early to judge, though—it might be exactly what the brand needs.
I think this is a good move. I love the classic woven design that is BV’s trademark and the relative discreetness of no logo. BV exudes quiet sophistication. I regularly peruse the BV web and pop into the stores, really wanting to buy a beautiful BV bag. However, I have never actually bitten the bullet. Unfortunately, most of the current designs seem too matronly even for me, a 37 year old mother of three. I am hopeful and optimistic about the future of Bv and what it has in store for its eager modern clientele.
I love the weave design. I brought one tote bag but within months the stitching on the lining came undone. Bottega has really bad customer service. Took about 6 months to resolve. In the end the Department store I brought it from gave me a full refund. I thought I would try again and buy another handbag, Unfortunately a screw from the C clip which holds the long strap came off and lost. I had to wait over three months for a replacement screw. Hopefully now I can enjoy my bag. They are classic handbags which I love. When I pay these prices I wish them to stay in fashion not just for one season.
I think it is a good thing as BV became so boring and predictable, beautifully made, but blah so much of the time.
It’s about time…love BV but I only purchase their SLGs because their bags all kinda look the same :/
time for a change at BV in my opinion
Definitely time for a change at Bottega Veneta. When you walk into a boutique today, it feels like the same designs you found in 2008. There is a fine line between classic and boring.
After 17 years, I can understand the need for a change, but I hate that all the design houses are chasing the youth market. I used to love Gucci – now I can’t stand it and generally don’t understand the appeal of Alessandro Michele. I don’t understand the economics either, when I was in my 20s I certainly couldn’t afford designer bags or clothes. Bottega Veneta under Maier, in my opinion, did appeal to an older customer, but I’ve never found his designs boring or stodgy, but subtly sophisticated, classic and wearable.
When is Chanel going to get some new blood? It’s time for a change there too.
I have never been wow’ed with anything ive seen from BV… I really like the idea with the signature woven design, but none of the designs has ever appealed to me. It’s going to be very interesting to see what someone else will do with the signature pattern.
I would probably be a minority here but his design were flawless, sophisticated and innovative. Someone who really owns a bag and a ready to wear would know what I am talking about. I have this theory that people find his design boring because this brand do not have a huge exposure and luxury brand is all about telling the world that you have it.