As we wrap up PFW, we’ve got one final designer debut to unpack: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s grand return to the fashion world after departing Valentino in early 2024. Known for his dreamy, romantic aesthetic often full of color and vibrance, his appointment signaled a change for the House, formally helmed by Demna and his experimental vision.
Piccioli, the fifth designer to sit at the brand’s helm, has brought his incredible attention to detail and distinct understanding of what women want to wear to Balenciaga. This brings a return to Balenciaga’s core ethos—a DNA rooted in technique and craft.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s New Chapter at Balenciaga
While the Spring 2026 collection signals a clear return to the Balenciaga of the past, show notes describe it as a “recalibration” rather than an homage to Cristobal Balenciaga. The collection feels like just that; there are hints to Balenciaga’s history throughout—think incredible construction, sculptural silhouettes, and attention to form.
Still, it would be remiss not to mention that Piccioli also paid tribute to his predecessor, as look one, and many others throughout, featured Demna’s signature shades. The color palette, too, felt like a nice mix of Balenciaga throughout history, with a bit of Piccioli’s penchant for color thrown in.
Reimagining Florals and Femininity
There was a lot of black, in the form of strong tailoring, statement leather, and more, juxtaposed by pops of bold red, chartreuse, burgundy, and light pink. If you thought Piccioli would leave his florals behind, think again. This season, reworked as appliqué flowers and hand-knit into an intricate dress.
Bags also offered nods to Balenciaga’s past eras, like the City Bag, designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, which is shown in an array of colors alongside new bags alike. Notable silhouettes include an east/west top-handle bowler, which was shown with many looks in smooth leathers and statement animal print.
An array of new flap bags appeared too, some finished with thick hardware and exaggerated straps, and others with a trunlock closure, presumably taken from the Rodeo. View bags from the runway below.
Handbags That Bridge Eras
Images courtesy of Balenciaga
