I don’t buy Hedi Slimane’s slim-cut, cigarette-wielding, party-girl schtick, so if you think it’s good, you can probably just skip down to the photos—we look at life in fundamentally different ways, and you probably will get mad at me for what I’m about to say. If you’ve been nervous about what Slimane’s appointment as Phoebe Philo’s successor at Céline might mean for a brand whose modern image has been predicated on the love and understanding of real, live, working, mothering, fully functional adult professional women, well, I’m here for you. Slimane debuted his first Céline (Celine? He struck the accent from the logo, but it’s unclear if it’s also been removed from the company name as a whole) collection in Paris late last week, and now we have to acknowledge that he’s done what we always feared. He took his one and only idea, which is currently still in the process of getting tired at Saint Laurent, and transposed it onto his new employer, down to the handbags. Nothing of what was there before remains.
At YSL, Slimane rarely put handbags on the runway, but in his debut, we got a couple out of him. They included an exotic version of the Céline 16 Bag that he sent out into the world on Lady Gaga’s arm a few weeks ago, as well as a saddle bag in the same design family. Those bags are fine, if a little predictable and indistinctive, and although they don’t make me swoon, I have no real problem with them. Far worse are the collection’s flap bags, which feature a big C logo that manages to both let you know that Slimane is trying to make a joke about Chanel (as he often did at Saint Laurent with its quilted bags), but also not provide anything positive in the way of aesthetics. It’s just a big ol’ sans-serif C on a bag that is, again, not particularly distinctive without it.
The third element of the runway’s bag collection was a series of elongated flap clutches, reminiscent of a late-80s or early-90s aesthetic of which Slimane is often a fan. They were fine. That’s the best I can muster about this collection: parts of it were fine, others were decidedly not. I don’t know anyone who works in fashion who had nicer things to say than that, and I can’t wait until Phoebe Philo resurfaces again, at another brand, or maybe her own.
[Photos via Vogue Runway]
Oy vey this collection is crap. Slimane knows how to cheapen a brand, like what happened with YSL bags.
I miss Phoebe Philo. This collection is boring and not worth it. Agree with everything you said here.
The only one I like is the last Box with the 2 Cs, that one is very vintage Celine. Everything else is just ugly as f… The chain flap bag looks like Michael Kors did a collab with Coach, and what is with the tassels. He really loves tassels like he did over at Saint Laurent.
I love Phoebe’s interpretation of the classic Celine Box. I’m on a bag ban right now, otherwise I would scoop one up right away. I’m just so heartbroken this is the new Celine… aka a recycled Saint Laurent.
Hedi needs to open his own brand right now. I’m sure it’ll do well, and then he can stop contaminating other brands.
Yes, that last bag kind of have a vintage vibe! There is hope after all
Oh noooo ewww. It’s even worse than I imagined. I personally like some whimsy in my designs and I think you can get away with A LOT of deliberate tackiness if the items are well made. But these look cheap and tacky in a bad way — that is to say, unintentionally. That too-shiny gold hardware is so aggressive and the whole look feels like a less funny, more expensive Moschino to me. What an insult to the deliberate, thoughtful, elegant Celine customer to put these on the runway. I am genuinely sad that I’m too early in my career to be able to afford any of the Phoebe Philo era Celine clothes and bags, because I’m sure they will be hard to find soon enough.
Also, “Because You’ll Have to See Them Eventually” is an AMAZING lead in that had me choking on my avocado toast. Amanda throws the best shade.
I agree with the other comments, these look cheap. Celine was such a great brand with such a clean vibe and never tacky. Buy-bye to that I guess.
I mean did anyone really expect anything different from him? I think the 16 gave me high hopes honestly, that he would keep it classy and understated. When I found out the smallest 16 would be €2900…. I was like nope. I’d rather get a Chanel mini square. No thanks. Definitely will be scooping up a phoebe era bag soon. Looking at a trio and a soft cube.
Every bag on here looks like a copy… the tassels look like the Chanel minaudiere clutch with the tassels which are on sale in stores now. The chain shoulder bags with the C on them look just like the Fall Christian Dior small chained shoulder bags with the CD initials at the closure. Even the rectangular clutches have been done by many others. I realize this is a business and you need to sell a certain amount to keep the lights on and make a profit, but this lacks all originality. From an artistic perspective I am disappointed. Only time will tell if these designs sell.
The entire collection was a mess.
Hideous at best! I can’t even begin to imagine this crap on display at the store…
This is incredibly disappointing… I had spoken with my Céline SA several weeks ago and she seemed so optimistic that the new bags would still be similar to Philo era bags. Obviously this isn’t the case. Not a single thing I can say I’d even consider, sad face.
so sad 🙁
Oh boy! None of these appeal to me, although the one with the vintage style logo is ok but I wouldn’t pay those crazy prices for it. Nobody has elevated Celine more than Phoebe Philo. I hope she starts her own fashion line.
It is an unfathomable ghastly collection from Hedi Slimane! He is going to tarnish the beautiful image of Celine! Looks cheap!!
Well my wallet was firmly shut this season from ALL designers but I held out hope for Céline…this mess is the last straw.
yes! for me it’s fall, too. i’m just super unimpressed by everything. i landed up buying a bunch of weed stocks instead of purses… tomorrow i’ll throw some cash at ZEN and GAMR. Why? Cos apparently I value purses over white collar betting, lol. But yeah, ugh, everything sucks and I’m bummed. Like the minute I become a rich person and there ain’t shit to buy.
agree – fall was uninspiring!
Looks like I’ll be saving some money. Used to get one Celine bag year. At least.
I like the saddle bag, but not strongly enough to pay designer prices for it.
Also coming back to say… when considered against the brand’s past lineup it is indeed nothing but disappointment. I do hope Philo starts her own brand.
Unfortunately, Celine has totally changed its image from a minimalist to a Rock Chic brand.
also, I wouldnt be surprised to see Celine store gets renovated into Saint Laurent store-liked white fluorescent lit with black and white marble flooring. mmmm…
Guess we all have to accept the fact, and its time to wave goodbye to Pheobe Philo era :((
It is what it is.
Honestly in my opinion, the Vintagy looking Box bag is quite acceptable, with the Signature CELINE logo (last pic).
atm, im not 100% with Hedi’s Celine , but who knows what’s gonna happen in the near furture.
Remember when Hedi dropped “Yves” from Saint Laurent, and came out with Sac Du jour (in the shape of birkin)? we were all furious that Hedi joked on the Birkin. but needless to say it was a success story.
so we shall see!
I even thought its Prada comic in pic 5.
Also, the “breep…….” clutch (Pic. 7) look really cheap! So sad
I love his bags!!!!
The new “website” is up but its just 3 esoteric videos. No product whatsoever.
Hedi must believe he’s Too Cool for School. Then I’m Too Cool to BUY!
I really wonder why brands continue to hire him. He wasn’t amazing at YSL and now he’s repeating himself at Celine. If he clings so much to his image then he should create his own line/company.
Not a single word in your piece I can find fault with or argue with its veracity. This was a strange move from the beginning. Hedi has long been notorious for being a primadona (NO press!!!) — scrubbing all traces of Philo’s oeuvre from the Céline Instagram account was just sh*tty. Watching her style evolution and what she did for that brand was nothing short of remarkable, starting off–almost–where Helmut Lang abruptly and prematurely ended in 2005 with a minimal, streamlined aesthetic (she even showed in his old venues for several seasons) to slowly freeing herself from the burden of expectations and essentially giving women what they wanted before they *knew* what they wanted. Every season held the promise of something new, something cool, something no one anticipated. And that, I suppose, is the rub: VERY few artists possess the ability to show us something totally new, quietly moving the goal posts every season. I wonder if she will return to fashion? I’ve read some differing opinions on both sides. Still, more to your point, this was just a huge gamble from the start. It’s funny because his time at SAINT LAURENT turned from 2012-2016 turned out to be a replay of every iteration of rock music imaginable. Aside from that strange, floaty, floppy fedora’d homage to the Manson Girls in six inch platform stilettos (bad joke; was he exalting Nico? Betty Catroux?) we started with Psych rock and ended, coincidentally, with what would be new wave. I can’t help but think someone like Elber Albaz or even Haider Ackermann would have been a much better decision.
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Yep, I want none of it.
God awful….
Terrible collection. That’s why it’s good that Slimane’s young customers have mostly moved on to Gucci. I give him 1 year until LVMH hires someone else.
I just want to hold on to my box bag and cry
This guys is a joke as a designer. Does he seriously think he’s that great? Somebody needs to put him in his place. He did nothing good for YSL. He thinks that dropping the Y and removing the accent is going to do good, c’mon.
Now the website is down to just showing the stupid show..
Website was supposed to return to normal after the show but I heard not before Oct 22…
I am going to treasure my old Céline bags forever now. That astetic seems no where to be found now. There is nothing here I would buy. I will say, I do like Saint Laurent bags. Especially my Sac de Jour in the baby size, and my medium Lou Lou for a more dressed up larger bag. I hope more classic styles come through the collections eventually. Just perhaps not from Celine.
I suspect the Phoebe designs will suddenly become collectors’ items and hold their value. Like the Gucci Disco bags. They originally retailed for around $900 and are selling for $700 on eBay. When shoppers love a design, they LOVE it and want it.
He just ruined the brand 🙁 The Massive “C” looks like a copy of Chloe’s new line
I agree!
Yeah…. I’ll wait for Phoebe Philo to come back. She should start her own brand. It maybe small, but global shipping would help.
These bags are just very bad and doesn’t measure up to her bags.
WTF. Ugly!!!! Everything is ugly af.
All I have to say is, I’m soooooo happy I binge bought a combo of classic and new phoebe philo Celine bags in the last year. This is a disgrace to the brand. It doesn’t stand out at all or look luxe. It’s like fashion, in general, these days. You want fuschia? Everyone, quick make fuschia! You want floral? Everyone make floral. You want a chubby coat? Quick, everyone make a faux fur chubby in every color possible. Celine was luxe and understated thanks to Phoebe. You could take these new bags and put just about any other brand name on them. Try again.
We want Phoebe!
eek tacky
“He took his one and only idea, which is currently still in the process of getting tired at Saint Laurent, and transposed it onto his new employer, down to the handbags.” nailed it.
I was in Bergdorf Goodman the other day and the Celine counter seemed the most sad, existentially empty place. Luggage totes, clasps, Big bags, all hanging there waiting to be shipped off to Neiman’s horrid outlet stores….
And for what? These bags are all derivative and gaudy. Versace and Gucci have that market covered. Why throw away the brand’s entire customer base? Real women who work for a living and want to be taken seriously do not buy this stuff.
The only one of these bags that will still be around in a year is that Kelly knockoff.
Sad.
As far as I know, the big bag line and luggage will be sold for the next year or so, or until they’re gone. Given this new line, people will buy them out. Luggage and Big bag will not go to outlet. I just purchased a black smooth micro, one of the last in the company ,and they’re not making more. SO, if people like it and think it’s going to become a collector’s item, buy asap.
I swear was saying “what?!” “What” “wthell??” “What?why??!” In every.single.photos.
The magic is gone.
These are YSL 2.0. Pass.
Would not have looked at them twice! Considered selling my Luggage Tote, but guess I will have to hold on to it with both hands now.
Same!! Third and last with the old logo… I need to see them irl now.
I simply don’t know what to think. I own many bags from Phoebe Philo era, even one from Michael Kors era, leather quality and designs are simply amazing. But now these? With tacky chains?! Just… no.
I am almost alone here, but I like some of the bags, especially the third and the last one.
Haven’t I seen these before? ::eye roll::
Is number 14 a new collection box bag?
I’m just really happy I invested in my Phoebe Philo Celine bags. Though now I’m scared to use them. I hope they don’t ditch the old box bag style or the trio bag. I’m going to baby the ones I have!