Virginie Viard debuted her first solo Chanel ready-to-wear collection following the death of Karl Lagerfeld today in Paris. Set in the Grand Palais with another ornate set design, a staple for Lagerfeld and the house, this set showcased rooftops of Paris which allowed for models to stroll on linked walkways. Not the most memorable set design (Lagerfeld was a mastermind when it came to themes) but a classic one paying homage to Coco Chanel who said “I’ve always lived in attics or palaces.”
This collection was far more demure than what we’ve come to expect from runway shows and the over-the-top settings and themes Lagerfeld seamlessly presented season after season. Every item may not have been ideal for everyday wear, but there was a strong cohesion and playfulness that helped create some of the most memorable bags that quickly turned into collectors items. Viard has big shoes to fill as she discovers her own essence at Chanel, but if this collection is a look at what to expect, it will be far different from Lagerfeld.
First off, there weren’t many bags. I had to look back multiple times to make sure I wasn’t missing something, but many looks the models took to the runway with their hands in their pockets and no bag in site (an ode to Coco Chanel and how she styled many of her models during shows before she introduced the 2.55). Only a handful of bags were part of this collection and it’s a departure from what we, as handbag lovers and fans of Lagerfeld, came to expect.
A few classics were spotted with tonal metal hardware matching the bright blue and green leather. As for new designs, there was a cylindrical wristlet with a cursive Chanel logo in a few variations, one which switched out the chain strap for a ruffled one. A bag that will surely be coveted was a top handle bag that has classic nods to the house along with a metal bar a-top. A structured, almost hobo-like bag in a couple sizes graced the runway as well. The bags were pretty, but they were, dare I say it, a bit boring. Chanel will always have timeless classic bags for consumers to purchase, but it is the theatrical and whimsical bags that have wowed handbag lovers like us for seasons past. Many times we all thought Karl took his collections too literally, but fashion has always been a way to express oneself and have fun and Lagerfeld perfected just that which left us with some of the most memorable bags of the past decade.
Viard needs to find her own stylistic voice and footing, which is hard to do when preceded by a fashion behemoth like Lagerfeld. Perhaps, we need to move on from what we came to expect from the brand. And while I almost felt like this collection was a tad bland, it was also pretty. The clothes were nods to the house in every way and the collection was less of an over-the-top-look-at-me event and more of a very Parisian delight. I suppose that isn’t the worst thing.
I actually love this collection. They look sensible and very wearable. Of course no one would hold a candle to Herr Karl’s theatrics, but it also means that no astronomical budget was set in setting up the presentation. We have all had to absorb the cost of such extravagant presentations by way of ridiculous prices. I hope that the price increase will slow down a bit with the new creative director’s vision.
The presentation wasn’t demure at all. They build a whole set…
Chanel will remain very expensive but without the magic.
Personally, it’s environmentally responsible to limit the number of bags they create and focus on purpose and functionality. Previous collections were impractical, expensive and mostly unsellable. I like most of these with the exception of the bags carried sideways with the brand’s name garishly highlighted. My favorite is the crossbody/shoulder bag in black and gray with a wide shoulder strap. These are pretty and practical, which I love.
Look if you wanna talk about bloody environmental stuff you should not buy anything and do not use any public transport! Nor do not buy any clothes as well as any products!
Not use public transport??
Interesting reaction. We all have a responsibility to protect our environment not only for ourselves, but future generations. If you want to be irresponsible and act recklessly, by enlarging the carbon footprint, shame on you. I am not perfect, but am trying to do better by being more ecological responsible as you, and everyone should want to do, as well. Our planet is in crisis mode and things can improve if we all work together towards a solution. That is what is important.
I have to say, I don’t believe that this is the format to discuss or push your very debatable environmental agenda on the group. I come here to hear about purses and fashion. And that it is. There are many formats for which you can preach about it, but the Purseblog should not be one of them.
I think Mary had a good point and it’s something ethically we are all forced to think about as people and as lovers of fashion. We need less but more quality items that are sustainable. Chanel is great because instead of a $50 bag that’s super trendy that also gets thrown out in a year or two, we can expect to keep it forever as it’s timeless in style and high quality.
I think Mary should take her good point to the correct format. But that’s just me.
You have the option not to read comments that appear to offend you. Mary is as entitled to her opinion, as you are. So, if you see something you don’t like move past it. Namaste!
Deep breaths….
Yes, it seems there is missing of minaudière in this ss20 collection. To be fair, i think Chanel would like to promote their newly released classic chanel 19 bags and create more varieties as you can seen here.
Karl is a man of fashion and he may have a better understanding on how market works and which are the best selling items. While minaudière is far to reach by most of us, the rich and famous rushed for it as collection and a stamp of status. The margin that chanel made from 1 minaudière could be equivalent to selling 10 or more of its classic flap bags.
Now, I personally feel one could have more difficulties in identifying the products, on which seasons they actually belong to. There is no thematic and characters to look forward, it may be good for consumers who do not want too “seasonal”bags.
When the fashion trend is heading towards unisex and man wore chanel jackets…doubt that having this more “feminine” and romantic collection is a right path to go? When you walk down to the stores and going through instagram photos, the popular items season by season is pullover, cardigan and some classic chanel jackets. Well, market speaks for itself and time will prove it.
Last note, the mini hobo is definitely not my preference.
Looks like the same safe, boring Chanel to me!
I think the collection is great; classic Chanel. Love all the matching tweed suit/bag sets.
Looks I could find a Zara. Not at all impressed with the collection.
I think that this collection is simple and classic, but I also agree that it is a “tad boring”. However, I think that Viard is trying to find her footing as a designer, and that can take some time. Who knows maybe after the 2020 season, Viard will be able to provide classic and custom ?????. Plus there might be a new bag release, or a redesign of a classic. I also think that Viard might be attempting to figure out what everyone in the 2020s fashion world will want from Chanel.
i like the big floppy bag in the lead photo. Also the half circles
Buahhaha! I miss Karl already!
Do you really think this is “different” from what you usually see from Chanel or are you being ironic/sarcastic?
I love classic Chanel so this was said as a good thing, I am happy this looks more like what Chanel, and Karl, made before, I was never a fan of gaudy black and gold pyramid bags etc.
I wish they will make more tweed bags in light neutrals! I hope the the chanel gods hear me as I have been waiting for soooo long for the perfect one to come along.
This doesn’t look like high fashion to me, it looks like trickle down Zara. I am worried for Chanel, this is just too basic and unimaginative. There is no wow factor, no innovation, nothing forward thinking at all. Revisionistic, but not even well done at that. Chanel needs a new AD, new life. Something fresh.
While there are some high points here, it feels like Chanel is suffering an identity crisis after losing Karl. I think they need a few seasons to find their way again. I hope the new designer’s work doesn’t continue to be so derivative of Karl’s work. This collection feels like leftovers.
I love this collection and saw a few bags that I would like to have. The whimsical bags are cool and amazing collector’s items. However, those items are not enough to sustain a brand. The classics sustain the brand as you sell more classics than the $8,000+ items. At the end of the day…money.
I love what I see and if I’m more loaded, I’m sure more than 5 pieces would come home with me. They’re not only pretty, but also practical, which is a rare thing from Karl’s. Don’t get me wrong. I Love Karl’s work, but I also work and his bag sometimes doesn’t suit my life. They’re great fun pieces, but since I’m not a lady who lunch, most of the time, they have to sit in my closet. But I can see myself wearing many of these everyday. Also, I can’t wait to see RTW. I love the clothes.
I loved the collection. Classic, romantic, feminine and wearable. I understand where some will say boring and safe; perhaps a bit of that too. She is playing it safe as it must be quite daunting for her to live up to expectations; regardless that she worked alongside the creative genius himself.
No, the bags aren’t earth-shattering or innovative in design, but they do look classic, understated and refined. I’m more than willing to give Viard some seasons to gain her composure and find her own footing. KL is a VERY difficult figure to follow, as he cast such a huge shadow. It would have seemed disrespectful for Viard to try to “outdo” KL out of the gate or switch direction entirely, IMO. (And I actually really like the little zip-top hobo bag!)
Meg, this is Virginie 3rd solo collection for Chanel. She might have taken the theme for her first collection from Karl and pay homage to him and Gabrielle for the second but this is nonetheless her third collection at the helm
The collection I like it. 3 of the bags from the collection I really love.
Collection is ok. I hope VV can pull off that original Gabrielle Chanel aesthetic rather than what KL did. I agree with whoever said it was too gaudy.
🙂 I like the classic CHANEL look a lot.
And the bags as well 🙂
Several gorgeous bags! Impressive!
Im loving this collection. Pretty and practical. That gives you better value for money me thinks.
Why not give the people on the wait list what they want… caviar Mini? These bags do not appeal to me whatsoever
Do you guys know how I can find the style code on some of the bags featured on these blogs? (especially for some older blogs) Thank you.