Michael Rider made his runway debut for Celine yesterday in Paris, off calendar, just as we’ve become accustomed to. Rider’s predecessor, Hedi Slimane, was known to show outside of the traditional fashion calendar, and that wasn’t the only homage Rider paid to Celine’s prior eras.
While it was immediately apparent that a new chapter of Celine was beginning, Rider’s debut was full of odes to classic Celine and the creative directors who came before him. Still, one look at the collection revealed that Rider was also influenced by his time at Ralph Lauren and his experience working under Phoebe Philo at Celine.
A New Era Begins: Rider’s Nod to Celine’s Iconic Past
Ready-to-wear features odes to both the Slimane and Philo eras. His opening look featured a Hedi signature—skinny jeans, while elsewhere, strong tailoring and bold shoulders felt reminiscent of Philo’s Celine. Hints of classic Americana were melded throughout, think layered knits, washed denim, and exposed collars, an homage to his time at Ralph Lauren.
As for the bags, and there were many, Rider did an incredible job putting his spin on brand icons and staple House codes. The iconic Celine Triomphe is here to say, both on Slimane-era silhouettes like the Garance bag and soft new shapes alike.
Philophiles will rejoice in the iconic Phantom’s return to the runway, given a bit of an east/west touch complete with a smiling zipper. Chic and ladylike frame box bags gave way to soft, supple big bags and silhouettes dressed in classic Triomphe canvas. View bags from the runway below.
A New Bag Era: Classic Shapes Meet Modern Sensibility
Images via Vogue Runway
I’m happy to see luggage/phantoms coming back.. But the smiley phantom really makes me want to cry.
And why did they add a flap over the micro luggage!
I never purchased a Luggage Tote when they were so popular because I couldn’t get past the fact it looked like a face, now the face is smiling. I kinda like it better now, ha!
Same 🙂
If you’re talking about nods to creative directors past, I see nods of Michael Kors. Hence, the nod to Americana that I would credit to Kors as opposed to Ralph Lauren. I get the reference since Rider was RL’s creative director.
I do agree with you there – Michael Kors was another king of American sportswear, just like RL himself!
I still just don’t like the logo or clasp but I see my preferred foil stamp on one piece.
A lot of interesting pairing of textures, maybe a dash of the RL style but still Celine nonetheless. I love the top handle triomphe east west bag in croc & white.
Love love this collection. The small box minaudiere is so cute. Totally digging the large round flap bag with the gold logo and the smiley Luggage bag! Omg so cute.
I think I would fit well into some of these bags.
That blue Celine box with awkward long strap, that strap.. still confusing
Cute pouch!