For Spring 2010, his collection for Christian Dior connected beautifully to the retro-and-structured-underthings look that he had showed earlier this year during Haute Couture week, and the 40s film noir looks were exactly what you would expect a dizzy dame to wear when walking into a smoky private eye’s office.

Galliano knows his audience for Dior, and I could see them buying up these ultra-glam cocktail dresses and floating evening gowns hand over fist. And not only are they beautiful, but they so thoroughly inhabit the brand’s history and mythology while still incorporating modern touches like tough leather bombers. The past and present meld gorgeously into looks that are not only art objects, but are also impressively wearable, for the most part. You know, if you go to those types of events.

                                    

Images via Style.com.

If I keep my personal feeling about smaller shoulder bags out of this review, I find myself liking the Dior Demi Lune Small Flap Bag. The leather is no doubt super supple and the twisted shoulder strap gives a dramatic touch. The foldover with pleated detail and silver hardware also adds nice accents.

When it comes to dimensions I feel like this purse should be a clutch. There is a 9″ drop, which is ample shoulder space, but the overall dimensions are 11×6.2×2.75 inches. are merely 4¼”W X 2½”H X 1″D. That is TINY, and though this is deemed the small size I feel like they should call it TINY. Tiny enough that I feel like this shoulder bag is actually a wristlet. Then again, my view of oversized handbags may completely and totally skew my view of proper dimensions. All I know is from the photo, the bag looks great but the size is definitely too small. Price is $1450 via Saks.

There are few more joyous occasions in fashion than Paris Couture Week, although this year’s flamboyant celebration of clothing and artistry has been somewhat hampered by the depressed economy and the impending departure of one of the genre’s greatest voices, Christian Lacroix. The fact that he was able to put on a show at all is the big story of the week; suppliers and industry friends helped the designer piece together a last-minute collection and presentation for what could be his last couture show if his brand doesn’t find a backer quickly. It demonstrates an odd sort of collegiality among fashion industry workers that many on the outside looking in might overlook in the midst of so much glitz and fabulousness – it takes an army of people to make this happen for us a few times a year, and they work extremely long hours for really modest pay. That so many of them donated their time, skills and goods to Lacroix to put together what may be his final show is kind of touching, particularly in an industry known for ego and elitism. He’s not the only one to put on a show for fashion editors and couture customers this week, though – we’ve got a rundown of the best looks from the best shows, after the jump.

Christian Lacroix

Since this may be Lacroix’s last appearance, I thought it was only fitting that he went first. His collection was based mostly on fabrics and other materials that he already had in his atelier, which mostly resulted in looks far more restrained and widely understandable than average for the haute couture master. Perhaps the more accessible looks will help Lacroix’s label find investors; one can only hope. The bright spot of hope was the small collection’s final look – an intricate wedding dress worthy of the Virgin Mary rendered in stained glass. It was so thoroughly and classically Lacroix that it almost reasserted that the man intended to soldier on and make beautiful clothing.

Chanel

I suspect that I may have been the only one that felt this way, but I just wasn’t feeling the majority of Chanel’s collection. Sure, the 60+ look presentation was chock full of beautiful clothes; some of them were even breathtaking. And I know it’s a Chanel staple and part of the brand’s history, but I just don’t care to see more than a dozen versions of a wool skirt suit when I tune in to see Haute Couture. I want drama, I want a challenge, I want something I can’t wear to the office. As the presentation went on, things picked up nicely, but front-loading the suits made me feel like I had to wait quite a while before anything dramatic came along. And when it did, it was standard Chanel couture – lots of white, ivory, black and silver in looks that were thoroughly French and thoroughly intricate. Lace and beading abounded; I only wish that we could have skipped the suits and gone straight from the fabulous.

Valentino

I don’t associate Valentino with haute couture in the same way that I do Lacroix or Gaultier, but I was immensely impressed by their collection. It was full of enough black lace, darkly beautiful silk roses, and jet beading to choke a goth, but despite the somber palette, the mood of the show was surprisingly youthful. Lace mini dresses and black rose-themed cocktail attire are on my fantasy list of night-out options, and Valentino’s stable of master couturiers realizes those options masterfully, in a way that is both young and extravagant. It’s not groundbreaking, but it’s really pretty.

Christian Dior

Another couturier choosing to not reinvent the wheel for this season was John Galliano at Christian Dior. Which is not to say that it wasn’t totally sublime – oh, it definitely was. The collection was a throwback to New Look Dior, simultaneously intricate and deconstructed in its use of corsetry and underpinnings as important elements of each ensemble. The colors were vibrant and cheerful, contrasting beautifully with the ivory and black base garments. This collection was a reminder of what couture is all about – extravagance, intricacy of construction, and clothing that can legitimately considered an art form. From the brilliantly enormous hats to the masterfully tailored coats and corsets, no collection reminded me more that couture is a single piece of clothing made for a single customer.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Ahh, I saved the best for last. From Brigitte Bardot to Barbarella, Jean Paul Gaultier gave us a collection loosely based on the screen sirens of yesterday and today. And the clothes were full of film fantasy – alligator overalls, floor-length fur, mini dresses that appear to be made of liquid metal. Gaultier is a master of the outrageous and fantastic, and he makes the clothes that I wish I could wear, if I had an endless budget and the self-confidence necessary to pull off something like a sequin-covered sailor shirt. Anyone that can conceive of such amazing garments not only wins at couture week, but wins at life.

This is a clear case of one designer ripping off another one if ever I’ve seen it, and in my mind, that’s way worse than a cheap chain store making ‘inspired’ bags. Dior is a brand with innumerable design and financial resources (they’re owned by LVMH, one of the companies that’s weathering the recession the best), yet for some reason, they’ve chosen to make something that’s little more than derivative of an iconic style. It’s a flap bag, it’s made of quilted black lambskin, and it has a handle that’s mostly chain. It even has a closure in the exact same place as a Chanel would. The quilting pattern is slightly different, as is the handle construction, but that’s not enough difference for me, particularly considering the close-to-Chanel price point. Buy through Saks for $1750.

It’s slouchy. It’s ruffly. It has chain handles. The leather looks super soft and touchable. But something is bothering me just a bit…too many ruffles? It might be the handles…do they seem a tad too close together to anyone else? I think that is the problem I’m having – when handles are set that close, it’s really hard swing a bag over your shoulder. Also, they don’t seem to coordinate with the proportion of the bag – it’s an east/west style, yet the handles are constructed like they’re for a north/south tote. If each side was just set an inch and a half closer to the outer edges of the bag, this one might be perfect. As it stands, it’s still pretty cool. Anyone seen us it in person that can comment? Buy through Saks for $1950.

We here at Purse Blog encounter a lot of bags every day – expensive ones, cheap ones, pretty ones, ugly ones. And then, sometimes, we encounter those that look just like ones that we’ve already encountered elsewhere. And, to a certain extent, you have to let it go. There are only so many ways to design a strap or attach a buckle, and when designer bags set so many of the overall bag trends, you’re going to see similar bags all over the place, and that’s not necessarily the cheaper brands’ fault. They have to follow the trends that their customers want to buy, which leaves them with few choices. They CAN choose, however, to not copy a brand’s design detail for detail, which is apparently not the choice that Forever 21’s “designers” made when they copied their Stone Quilted Tote inch for inch from the beautiful Dior 61 Croc-Stamped Tote. We normally ignore the copies, but I think this instance is a good reminder of why exactly it is we love designer bags – the Dior tote shows such an obvious precision and attention to detail, even in these small photos, when compared to the cheap copy that the craftsmanship is clear. No one would ever mistake one for the other, despite Forever 21’s best efforts.

Pink soft grained calfskin leather graces the overall elegant and effortless Dior Medium Dior 61 Tote. The only reference found to Dior is the classic Dior charms, namely a dangling small C and big D, which I can easily handle. The silvertone hardware goes perfectly with the pink leather. The double handles have a 9″ drop, which leaves plenty of space between your shoulder and the opening of the bag. And the outside of the bag is accessible and practical, with two pockets.

I don’t know about you but I am pleasantly surprised with this bag. It is as if Dior finally popped back in to say hello and let us know that they did not loose their oomph completely. Sure there are some hap-hazard designs floating around, but the Dior 61 tote is the perfect hobo that speaks to the masses and will look smashing for fall. There is a brown Brandy color available as well, but that is too plain, too expected, too blah compared to the pink. Buy through Saks for $1850.

The house of Dior has released Ready To Wear ensembles that have ignited the senses and flowed perfectly on womens bodies. The problem is their handbag collection has been lacking greatly. Dior handbags have been rigid and lacking ingenuity, therefor the market for them has dwindled. They have had a few hits, but after the surge of loving the Dior Saddle Bag, the brand has yet to release a bag that garners a tenth of the attention the Saddle bag has done for them. But the Dior Babe Bag has begun to garner back the recognition the brand has been known for, offering a modern touch to a contemporary vibe. The Dior Babe Bag is designed with smooth grained leather and a circular logo-engraved silvertone handles. The handles are what brings the attention. It is an otherwise simple bag but then catches your attention with the modern touch of the circular handles. There are pintucked gathers on the front and back to give the bag the perfect amount of volume. Knowing that they had to do as much as they can to justify the price, Dior added a zipped clutch which is attached to a leather strap inside. This clutch can be left inside or removed to be carried separately. The clutch is cute enough to stand on its own and cute enough that I would buy it separately in the store, though it will not be offered separately. Dimensions are 15.5″ (at widest point)x 8.5″x 6.5″. This is the next hit from Dior and we are glad to see them making a comeback in the handbag world, even if it is small. Buy either purple or black (hands down I vote for purple) via eLuxury for $2,290.

Fab or Drab?

This playful ring is oddly calling my name, even though I do not speak French, nor is my family French. The Dior Oui Ring is designed with 18K white gold and the “i” is dotted with a .03 diamond. Small but enough to add a tiny sparkle here or there. A cute Dior accessory for a Dior accessory price. $675 via eLuxury.

I feel like it has been eons since we have discussed a Christian Dior Handbag. Not really sure why we have not. Actually, I am. Their bags have been ugly. Yes, that is why. But a funky little 80’s number has been released and I am digging it. The Dior Nylon Cannage Drawstring Bag is available in either fuchsia or purple stitched nylon. The drawstring style is laid back for day to day use. I would not be using this every single day, but why not throw in a little color, especially since neon and bright colors are back in style. For those of you that thought I was totally ragging on all neons after the Fendi Wallet incident, you will now see that I am not completely opposed to neon done right. The silver tone hardware is the perfect touch on the ring detailing. Inside there is a cell phone pocket, slide pocket, and zip pocket. Dimensions are 11″H x 11 4/5″W x 4 7/10″D. Funky, fresh, and most importantly FUN. Pre-order via Neiman Marcus for $990.

A sure way to make my blue eyes stand out is to wear blue. A baby blue shirt makes my eyes look completely different than a shocking ocean blue. This exact hue of blue on the Dior My Dior Tote would do wonders for my eyes, and all you other blue eyed gals out there. Stunning blue leather and silver tone hardware is a stunner. I, of course, was looking out for myself and my blue eyes, but this color would look amazing on anyone in my opinion. A frame top, top handles, gathered front, and logo bit, finish off this hit bag. The color is smashing; pre-order yours through Bergdorf Goodman for $1790.

The gal that John Mayer wants is a down to Earth, small town, fairy-tale sorta gal. Is that Jessica Simpson? Well, the whole MTV reality show, 3 year marriage, chicken-of-the-sea, bleach blond may not fit the description but she is sure trying. From platinum, to a few low-lights, to all over rich brunette, Jessica Simpson is yet again making a transformation in front of our eyes. We are having a hard time deciphering whether or not this is a wig, but I really like the dark tresses on her. Even better, Jess put together a great outfit; black pants, black tank, a black velvet jacket, and of course a black Christian Dior My Dior Medium Handbag. Somehow she does not look goth, rather sexy, and I love this bag on her. The My Dior handbag line is making a splash because of its simple body, frame tops, braid handle detailing, and the cute silver metal top accessory. I dig both the bag and Jess. Buy the bag via eLuxury for $1380.

There has not been a huge amount of talk on Dior handbags around here recently. But the new My Dior line resembles the Dior Detective line which was a major hit. Simple, large, and structured the Dior My Dior Large Pockets Handbag is designed with soft grained leather, features a frame top, sports antiqued silver metal hardware, and measures 17″ x 14″ x 4.5″. While the bag as a whole is simple, there are some added touches including rolled leather handles with braid detailing and two front flap pockets with buckle details. On the inside there is soft leather lining with 3 inner pockets. Is the My Dior line and this handbag a yay or nay for you? Buy it through eLuxury for $1990.

John Galliano toned it down in Paris with the Christian Dior Spring 2007 Collection. While his line was nothing flashy, the simplicity and clean lines worked for me. Sometimes it is nice to look at something that is not too noisy or busy. The Dior Handbags were “gimmick-free chain-handled handbags” that sported the same shape but different materials and colors. Overall, this line makes my life a bit easier and makes it look easy to be fashionable. {via Style}

While the hair styles fit the feel of the collection, I must say that I would not smile if I was wearing this sort of boyish up-do either.